| Pattern Definition - relevant to Sewing & Clothing | |||||||||||||||||
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In
sewing
and
fashion design, a
pattern is an
original
garment from
which other garments of a
similar style are copied, or
the paper or cardboard
templates from which the
parts of a garment are
traced onto
fabric
before cutting out and
assembling (sometimes called
paper patterns).
Patternmaking or pattern making is the art of designing patterns. A custom-fitted basic pattern from which patterns for many different styles can be created is called a sloper or block. Patterns for custom dressmakingCustom dressmaking frequently begins with the creation of a sloper or block, a basic pattern for a fitted, jewel-neck bodice and narrow skirt, made to the wearer's measurements. The sloper is usually made of lightweight cardboard or tagboard, without seam allowances or style details. Once the shape of the sloper has been refined by making a series of mock-up garments called toiles (UK) or muslins (US), the final sloper can be used in turn to create patterns for many styles of garments with varying necklines, sleeves, dart placements, and so on Patterns for home sewingHome sewing patterns are generally printed on tissue paper and sold in packets containing sewing instructions and suggestions for fabric and trim. Modern patterns are available in a wide range of prices, sizes, styles, and sewing skill levels, to meet the needs of consumers. Home sewing patterns are graded, that is, redrawn to fit larger and smaller sizes than the original design. Ebenezer Butterick invented the graded sewing pattern in 1863, originally selling hand-drawn patterns for men's and boys' clothing. In 1866, Butterick added patterns for women's clothing, which remains the heart of the home sewing pattern market today. Patterns for commercial clothing manufactureThe making of industrial
patterns begins with an
existing block pattern that
most closely resembles the
designer's vision. Patterns
are cut of oak-tag (manila
folder)
paper, punched with a
hole and stored by hanging
with a special hook. The
pattern is first checked for
accuracy, then it is cut out
of sample fabrics and the
resulting garment is fit
tested. Once the pattern
meets the designer's
approval, a small production
run of selling samples are
made and the style is
presented to buyers in
wholesale markets. Once the
style has demonstrated sales
potential, the pattern is
graded for sizes, usually by
computer with an apparel
industry specific
CAD program. Following
grading, the pattern must be
vetted; the accuracy of each
size and the direct
comparison in laying
seam lines is done. Once
these steps have been
followed and any errors
corrected, the pattern is
approved for production.
When the manufacturing
company is ready to
manufacture the style, all
of the sizes of each given
pattern piece are arranged
into a marker,
usually by computer. The
marker is then laid on top
of the layers of fabric and
cut. Once the style has been
sold and delivered to stores
Join the home sewing group or the pattern makers group at the Fashion Industry Network. |
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