| Marks & Spencer plc |
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Marks & Spencer plc (known also as M&S or Your M&S and sometimes colloquially as Marks and Sparks or Marks) is a British retailers . It is one of the most iconic chain stores in the UK and is the largest clothing retailer in the UK by turnover (ASDA claimed first place by volume in 2004), as well as being a multi-billion pound food retailer. Most of its shops sell both of these categories. It also has a third line of business selling homewares such as bedlinen, but this is far smaller than the other two. In 1997 it became the first British retailer to make a profit before tax of over 1 billion, though a few years later it plunged into a crisis which lasted for several years. As of 2006 it is growing again, and rapidly regaining profitability, but it is now less than one quarter of the size of the UK's largest and most profitable retailer, Tesco. In 2006, Your M&S has opened a Technology Department in each flagship Store. HistoryThe original firm was a
chain of "penny bazaars",
founded by a Jewish
immigrant,
Michael Marks in
Leeds with a loan of
Unlike most of its rivals M&S resisted the lure of television advertising when ITV was launched in 1955, preferring to rely on its reputation to draw in customers. It was not until the mid-1990s that the first TV commercials for M&S clothing were broadcast. M&S made its reputation
in the 20th century on a
policy of only selling
British-made goods. It
entered into long term
relationships with British
manufacturers, and sold the
goods under the "St Michael"
brand (trademark
registered in 1928), which
was used for both clothes
and food. It also accepted
the return of unwanted
goods, giving a full cash
refund if the receipt was
shown no matter how long ago
the product was purchased.
It has now adopted a 90-day
returns policy, which puts
it ahead of rival retailers,
who still only offer a
maximum of 30-days on
refunds. The company put its
main emphasis on quality,
but for most of its history,
it also had a reputation for
offering fair value for
money. When this reputation
began to waver, it
encountered serious
difficulties. Arguably, M&S
has historically been an
iconic retailer of 'British
Quality Goods.' Its business
model required suppliers to
commit to long term
contracts solely to M&S.
This approach often led to
an over reliance by
manufacturers on the portion
of trade they did with M&S.
Accordingly, when the M&S
fashion buyers changed
suppliers on some aspects of
the company's retail
clothing offering,
manufacturers were left
dangerously exposed In 1988, the company acquired Brooks Brothers, an American clothing company and Kings Super Markets, a US food chain. M&S's profits peaked in
1997 and 1998. At the time
it was seen as a continuing
success story, but with
hindsight it is considered
that during Sir
Richard Greenbury's
tenure as head of the
company, profit margins were
pushed to untenable levels,
and the loyalty of its
customers was seriously
eroded. The rising cost of
using British suppliers was
also burden, as rival
retailers increasingly
imported their goods from
low-cost countries, but
M&S's belated switch to
overseas suppliers
undermined a core part of
its appeal to the public. In
addition, as an ageing and
famously bureaucratic
company, it was losing touch
with potential younger
customers, who were
reluctant to shop with it.
These factors combined to
plunge M&S into a sudden
slump, which took the
company, its shareholders,
who included hundreds of
thousands of small
investors, and nearly all
retail analysts and business
journalists, by surprise.
The company's share price
fell by more than two
thirds, and its profits fell
from more than a billion
pounds in 1997 and 1998 to
Since the late 1990s M&S has experienced serious boardroom instability and has made a number of attempts to revive its business, with only partial success. In 2001, with changes in their business focus such as the introduction of the "Per Una" clothing range designed by George Davies, accompanied by a redesign of their underlying business model, profits recovered somewhat and M&S recovered some of its market share, but it soon became apparent that problems remained. Other changes to tradition included accepting credit cards and opening their stores on Sunday. In 2004, M&S was in the
throes of an attempted
takeover by
Arcadia Group &
Bhs boss,
Philip Green. On July 12
a recovery plan was
announced which would
involve selling off the
financial services business
to
HSBC Bank plc, buying
control of the Per Una
range, closing the
Gateshead Lifestore and
stopping the expansion of
its
Simply Food line of
stores.
Philip Green withdrew
his takeover bid after
failing to get sufficient
backing from shareholders.
Philip Green's offer to the
shareholders in 2004 of The headquarters of M&S was for many years in Baker Street, London; during World War II these offices were used by the Special Operations Executive for secret missions in Occupied Europe. In 2005 the company moved to a new headquarters in Paddington, London. BrandingIn the late 1990s, The St Michael brand was discontinued in favour of Marks & Spencer. When Stuart Rose took over in 2004, he introduced a new promotional brand under the Your M&S banner, with a corresponding logo. This has now become the company's main brand in its advertising, online presence and in-store merchandising. The clean font and modern colours of the new image are somewhat incongruous alongside the traditional M&S signage and associated fittings that still adorn the stores themselves. In fact the only thing they have in common is the use of M&S traditional green in the ampersand of the new logo. This may seem confusing at first, but the new look has been instrumental in the company's recent resurgence, particularly with the success of a new clothing campaign featuring the legendary model, Twiggy, and younger models associated with the bohemian styles of 2005-6, and the TV ad campaign for their food range featuring Dervla Kirwan and the tagline "This is not just food, this is M&S food". |
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"The Look"A new store format, known as "The Look", designed by
Urban Salon Architects, has won much praise and is in the
process of being rolled out across all stores, of which, 35%
have been completed. The new store designs cost
approximately Several of the older design stores have recieved what is known as the "Touch of Light" makeover, which is a temporary update to interiors, such as new mannequins, carpets replaced by laminate flooring, and some new decals, to rejuvinate the old store formats until the full new look overhaul can be undertaken. The full new look makeover is a drastic reworking of store design, including the gutting of old stores, and installation of a brighter, more spacious, modern and contemporary design, replacing carpets and laminate floors with white tile throughout (black tile in Foods) thus opening the floor instead of having pathways, having new contemporary white mannequins in new designs and poses, new displays and kit such as new design clothing rails, product stands (formerly known as "Lutons"), display and product walls, window display styles, larger fitting rooms (replacing old curtained boothes baring fleur-du-lis designs, with new contemporary doored compartments baring black and white model photoshoots), glass walls, till points, and general total updating of decals, designs, equipment, lighting and uniforms throughout, bringing M&S into the 21st Century. LocationsM&S have over 400 stores located throughout the UK, providing nearly 12.5 million square feet of selling space. This includes their largest store at Marble Arch, London, which has around 170,000 square feet of sales floor. Outside London, the next biggest store is then located in Warrington, at Gemini Retail Park. In addition they have a growing international business, with 192 stores managed under franchise in 30 territories mostly in Europe, the Middle East, Asia and the Far East, and wholly-owned stores in the Republic of Ireland and Hong Kong. The newest store to open is "Bolton Middlebrook", in Horwich,Bolton, which opened on October 5th 2006, and will be the benchmark for new stores, especially Retail Estate stores, with new ideas such as having every tills/checkout point manned during all working hours, new teams dedicated to smaller tasks previously undertaken by general staff, and being the first M&S to open 24 hours, initially just for "Christmas Week". International franchises
International stores are mostly present in
former British colonies and Eastern Europe;
The expansion into France began with stores
opening in Paris at Boulevard Haussmann and
Lyon in 1975, followed by a second Paris
store at Rosny 2 in 1977. Further expansion
into other French and Belgian cities
followed into the 1980's. Although the Paris
stores remained popular and profitable, the
whole of the Western European operation did
not fare as well and all the stores were
closed in 2001. As a result of the
legislation set in place by the French
government to protect their labour force,
this was a costlier exercise than M&S
management anticipated.
M&S expanded into Canada in 1973, and at one point had 47 stores across Canada. Despite various efforts to improve its image, the chain was never able to move beyond its reputation in Canada as a stodgy retailer, one that catered primarily to senior citizens. The stores in Canada were smaller than British outlets, and did not carry the same selection. In the late 1990s, further efforts were made to modernize the stores and expand the customer base, and unprofitable locations were closed. Nonetheless, the Canadian operations continued to lose money, and the last 38 stores in Canada were closed in 1999. The first M&S store in central Asia was built in Kabul, Afghanistan in the 1960s. The store was later shut down as the mood of the city turned conservative. External links
Designer Definition (from U.S Department of Labor) |
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