Kimono (
Japanese:
着物 literally "something one wears") are the
traditional
garments of
Japan.
Kimono was originally a word that referred to all types of
clothing, but the word eventually came to refer specifically to the
full-length robe-like
garment still worn by women, men and children
today.
History and description
The modern kimono began to take shape in the
Heian period (CE
794-1192).
Since then the basic shape of both men's and women's kimono
has remained essentially unchanged: a T-shaped,
straight-lined robe that falls to the ankles, with a collar,
and sleeves that fall to the wrist. The sleeves also fall
from the wrist to approximately the waist if the arms are
held straight out (though some styles have extremely long
sleeves (see below); the sleeves of some kimono fall almost
to the floor). The robe is wrapped around the body, always
with the left side over the right, and secured by a wide
belt (called an
obi)
which is tied in the back.
Women's kimono are basically one size, and are tucked and
folded to accommodate different body heights and shapes (in
modern times, however, men's as well as women's kimono are
increasingly available in sizes. Very tall or heavy people
(such as
sumo wrestlers) have to have kimono custom-made.
In the past, a kimono would often be deconstructed
entirely for washing in separate pieces, and then re-sewn
for wearing. Modern cleaning methods and fabrics have
largely eliminated this practice. "Basting stitches," long,
loose stitches, are sometimes placed around the outside
edges of the kimono for storage. They help to prevent
bunching, folding and wrinkling, and keep the kimono's
layers in alignment.
Over time there have been many variations in colour,
fabric and style, as well as accessories such as the obi.
There are styles of kimono for various occasions, ranging
from extremely formal to very casual. The level of formality
of women's kimono is determined by the shape (mostly the
length of the sleeves), pattern and fabric, and also the
colour. Men's kimono are usually one basic shape and are
mainly worn in subdued colours. Formality is determined by
the type and colour of accessories, the
fabric, and the number or absence of
mon (family crests).
Silk is the most desirable, and most formal, fabric.
Cotton is more casual. These days there are
polyester kimono as well; they are generally more
casual.
Kimono are made from a single bolt of kimono fabric. Such
bolts come in standard dimensions, and all the fabric is
used in the making of the kimono. This is one reason why
larger-size kimono are difficult to find and very expensive
to have made.
Kimono in general are expensive. They are sewn by hand,
and the fabrics from which they are created are also
frequently hand made and hand decorated. A single woman's
kimono can easily exceed US$10,000; a complete kimono
outfit, with kimono, undergarments, obi, ties, socks,
sandals and accessories, can exceed US$20,000; it is not
uncommon for a single obi to cost well in the thousands of
dollars. In practice, however, most kimono owned by typical
kimono hobbyists or practitioners of traditional arts are
far less expensive. Enterprising people can make their own
kimono and undergarments fairly easily as they follow a
standard pattern, or they can "recycle" older kimono.
Cheaper and machine made fabrics can be substituted for the
traditional hand dyed silk. There is also a thriving
business in second hand kimono in Japan. Women's obi,
however, remain an expensive item. Even second hand they can
cost hundreds of dollars, and they are difficult for
inexperienced people to make. Men's obi, even those made
from silk, tend to be much cheaper. This is largely because
they are much narrower and much shorter than those worn by
women.
Kimono are never wasted. Old kimono are recycled in
various ways: they may be altered to make
haori, or kimono for children; the fabric may be used to
patch similar kimono; larger parts of fabric are used for
making kimono accessories such as handbags; smaller parts
can be used to make covers, bags or cases for various
implements, especially things like the sweet-picks used in
tea ceremony. Kimono that are damaged in the lower portions
can also be worn under
hakama so the damage does not show.
Today, kimono are mainly worn only on special occasions,
and mostly by women. Men wear kimono most often at
weddings and
tea ceremony. Kimono are also worn by both men and women
in certain sports, such as
kendo. There is a large number of kimono hobbyists in
Japan, where it is possible to take classes on wearing
kimono. Such classes cover skills such as selecting
seasonally and event-appropriate patterns and fabrics,
matching the kimono undergarments and accessories to the
kimono, selecting and tying an obi, etc.
Most Japanese women would be unable to properly put on a
kimono unaided, as the typical woman's outfit requires
twelve or more separate pieces which must be worn, matched
and secured in prescribed ways (men's kimono outfits are far
simpler, typically consisting of a maximum of five pieces,
not including socks and sandals). For this reason there are
still professional kimono dressers who can be hired to help
women wear kimono, usually for special occasions. Kimono
dressers must be licensed, and while they often work out of
hair salons, many make housecalls as well.
There may still be older women and, probably to a far
lesser extent, men who wear kimono on a daily basis. Except
when in the ring, professional sumo wrestlers are required
to wear kimono whenever they appear in public.
Women's kimono
There are several different types of kimono worn by women
today. These are chosen according to the wearer's gender and
age, and the level of formality required. The following
lists the different types by descending order of formality.
- Kurotomesode (黒留袖 ; くろとめそで): black
kimono, patterned only below the waistline,
kurotomesode are the most formal kimono for married
women. They are often worn by the mothers of the bride and
groom at
weddings. Kurotomesode usually have five
kamon (family crests) which are printed on the
sleeves, chest and back of the kimono.
- Furisode (振袖 ; ふりそで): furisode
literally translates as "swinging sleeves" -- the sleeves
of furisode average between 39 and 42 inches in
length. Furisode are the most formal kimono for
unmarried women. They have patterns which cover the entire
garment, and are usually worn at coming-of-age ceremonies
(Seijin
Shiki) and by unmarried female relatives of the
bride at weddings and
wedding receptions.
- Irotomesode (色留袖 ; いろとめそで):
irotomesode are single-colour kimono, patterned only
below the waistline. They are slightly less formal than
kurotomesode, and are worn by married women,
usually close relatives of the bride and groom at a
wedding. May have three or five
kamon.
- Houmongi (訪問着 ; ほうもんぎ): literally
translates as "visiting wear." Characterized by patterns
which flow over the shoulders, seams and sleeves,
houmongi rank slightly higher than their close
relative, the tsukesage. Houmongi may be
worn by both married and unmarried women; often friends of
the
bride will wear houmongi at weddings and
receptions. They may also be worn to formal parties, such
as galas.
- Tsukesage (付け下げ ; つけさげ): a
tsukesage has more modest patterns that cover less
area -- mainly below the waist -- than the more formal
houmongi. They may also be worn by married and
unmarried women.
- Iromuji (色無地 ; いろむじ): single-colored
kimono that may be worn by married and unmarried women.
They are mainly worn to tea ceremonies. The dyed silk may
be figured (rinzu, similar to jacquard), but has
no differently colored patterns.
- Komon (小紋 ; こもん): "fine pattern" in
English. Kimono with a small, repeated pattern throughout
the garment. Somewhat casual: may be worn around town, or
dressed up with a nice obi for a restaurant. Both married
and unmarried women may wear komon.
-
- Edo komon (江戸小紋 ; えどこもん): Edo
komon is a type of komon characterized by
tiny dots arranged in dense patterns that form larger
designs. The Edo komon dyeing technique
originated with the
samurai class during the
Edo period. A kimono with this type of pattern is of
the same formality as an iromuji, and when
decorated with
kamon, may be worn as visiting wear (equivalent to a
tsukesage or houmongi).
