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It is a simple form of embroidery, using black thread on white or off-white fabric.

Technique

Blackwork is usually executed on evenweave fabric that is easily countable. Any black thread can be used, but firmly twisted threads of any material give a better look than embroidery floss. Sometimes metallic threads or coloured threads are used for accents. The stiches used are double running stich, which is also called holbein stich or backstich and sometimes stem stich.

Historically, there are three known techniques to execute blackwork.

• The stiches are executed following a counting pattern, creating both the bigger shapes and small filling patterns. Most modern blackwork follows this pattern, especially the commercially produced patterns that are marketed for hobby stitchers. The whole embroidery looks somewhat geometric.

• The shapes, which can be curvilinear, are surrounded by outlines made fom stem stich and then filled with geometric patterns

• The entire embroidery is curvilinear, and often uses random stitches, so-called seed stitches, as filling rather than geometric patterns. This style was invented to mimic etchings.

History

Historically, blackwork was used on clothing in the time of Henry VIII. Initially it was known as "Spanish work" since Catherine of Aragon is said to have brought many blackwork dresses with her from Spain. A favourite motif on her clothing was the pomegranate which was used as a heraldic device in Granada, where Catherine lived as a child.