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Page (D1) Textile Glossary
dobby a fabric made with a dobby, namely a loom with
an attachment for weaving small figures.
doeskin wool and also rayon.
Very smooth, lustrous surface made with a slight short nap very close and
compact weave to look like fine leather. Weave not visible because
of napping. Very high quality wool used. Needs care in handling.
Medium weight. Women's suits and coats, and also in a lighter weight
for dresses. Sportswear and riding habits for both men and women. Trousers
and waistcoats for men.
dog collar [Slang] clerical collar; a wide flexible snug-fitting
dolman sleeve is a full sleeve that is very
wide at the armhole and narrow at the wrist. This type of sleeve tends
to draw attention to the shoulder and arm.
Term used to refer to bedding (sheets, comforters etc), towels,
linens and other "soft goods". Term might have a different meaning
company to company so always inquire definition before purchasing.
(definition provided by Robert Cyr
at RLC Trading)
flannel Also spelled domet.
Plain or twill weave; cotton. Generally made in white. Has a
longer nap than on flannelette. Soft filling yarns of medium or light
weight are used to obtain the nap. The term domett is interchangeable
with "outing flannel" but it is only made in a plain weave. Both
are soft and fleecy and won't irritate the skin. Any sizing or starching
must be removed before using. Outing flannel is also piece-dyed
and some printed and produced in a spun rayon also. Mostly used for
infants wear, interlinings, polished cloths.
domino a long loose hooded cloak usually worn with a half mask
as a masquerade costume; a half mask worn over the eyes with a masquerade
wool - also in rayons and cottons. Mostly
plain weave but some in twill. Originally a homespun woven by the
peasants in Donegal, Ireland. A rough and ready fabric that stands
much hard wear. Yarns are coarse with thick slubs and coloured nubs.
Now made in other places as well - particularly England.
donkey jacket [British] a jacket of heavy material worn
especially by laborers
type of shoe. a 19th century Frenchman created this style with a cutaway
in-step that reveals the arch of the foot.
dotted Swiss plain weave
cotton for ground with a swivel, lappet or flocked dot. A sheer
light muslin ornamented with evenly spaced raised dots.
Placed regularly or irregularly on a semi-sheer usually crisp
fabric which may or may not be permanent. First made on hand looms
in Switzerland. It is made generally in 32" widths.
The lappet is the most permanent. When hand woven with a swivel attachment
the dots are tied in by hand on the back of the cloth. The ground fabric
is usually a voil or a lawn. Dots could be a single colour or multicoloured.
yarn woven with two warps and one filling, to simulate
a double satin construction. Has satin on both sides.
Cotton filling is often used in cheaper qualities.
double knit a knitted fabric
(cotton, wool, worsted, silk, rayon, and synthetics)
made with a double set of needles to produce a double thickness of fabric
with each thickness joined by interlocking stitches. An article of
clothing made of double knit fabric, namely a fabric knitted to produce
a double thickness. A two faced cloth, either face
may be utilized as the rigth side. The fabric originated in Milan
and Florence. Can be stabilized for shrinkage control and dry cleans
a man's close-fitting jacket worn in Europe especially during the Renaissance
silk yarns made from the cocoon of two silk worms that have
nested toghether. In spinning, the double strand is not separated
so the yarn is uneven and irregular with a large diameter in places.
Fabric is of silk made in a plain weave. The fabric is very irregular
and shows many slubs; seems to be made in a hit and miss manner.
It is imitated in rayon and some synthetics, and one such fabtic is called "Cupioni".
Dupion yarns also used in shantung, pongee. Tailors very well.
drop needle a knit fabric characterized
by a vertical lines within the cloth. This knit is manufactured by "dropping"
a needle from the knitting cylinder.
dunce cap a conical cap formerly used as a punishment for
slow learners at school [Also called, dunce's cap]
dungaree clothes made usually of blue denim
good quality wool.
If made in cotton, is usually called suede cloth. Close weave, brushed,
singed, and sheared to conceal the weave. Has a smooth plush appearance
resembleing a compact velvet. Similar to wool broadcloth but heavier
and thicker. Has a good draping quality, soft and wears well if looked
after. Spots easily and care must be taken when handling it. Back
is often slightly napped also. Name derived from the French word "duvet"
meaning "down". Used a great deal in the millinery trade.
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