in the fashion industry is not the same as a teacher grading
class papers. However, if you are a teacher at a
fashion school, it is true that grading is part
of your responsibilities. Anyway, grading a test is simply
different then the type of grading that I plan to discuss on
of a pattern (or grading of size spec measurements) means
adding or decreasing inches (or other measurement units such
as millimeters), to a specific part of the sample sized
pattern in order to size up or size down. In other words,
when grading you are creating a size run of varying
dimensions and sizes. For example, if your sample size is
size medium, you will need to grade "up" to determine the
measurements for size Large and X-large etc. If your sample
is size medium, you will need to grade "down" to determine
the measurements for size small.
to do this, you need to have established grade rules.
Unfortunately, grade rules vary from company to company.
Also, they change depending on the fabrication. For
example, the grade rule for the neck opening for a knit top
may be different for the neck opening for a woven top. It
is important to take into account that knit will stretch
more then woven and therefore, may require different rules.
example, one company may grade the sample size's waist
measurement up 1 1/2" to make a size six a size eight.
However, another company may grade the sample size's waist
measurement up 1 1/4" to make a size six a size eight.
Because their is no
apparel industry standardization
each manufacturer or designer has the
opportunity to decide how their production pattern gets
graded. They determine their standard sample measurement as
well as their specific grade rules.