The word
crochet is derived from the
Middle French word
croc or
croche, meaning
hook. It describes the process of creating fabric from a length
of cord, yarn, or thread with a hooked tool. The origin of the
crochet technique is a subject of considerable controversy. The word
is not to be confused with "crotchet", otherwise known as a
quarter note.
Definition
Crocheted fabric in the modern sense is begun by placing
a loop on the hook, pulling another loop through the first
loop, and so on to create a chain. The chain is either
turned and worked in rows, or joined end-to-end and worked
in rounds. Stitches are made by pulling one or more loops
through each loop of the chain. This method distinguishes
crochet from other methods of fabric-making as it is
composed entirely of loops and is only secured when the free
end of the strand is pulled through the final loop
Origins
Some theorize that crochet evolved from traditional
practices in Arabia, South America, or China, but there is
no decisive evidence of the craft being performed before its
popularity in Europe during the
1800s. Many find it likely that crochet was in fact used
by early cultures but that a bent forefinger was used in
place of a fashioned hook; therefore, there were no
artifacts left behind to attest to the practice. These
writers point to the "simplicity" of the technique and claim
that it "must" have been early.
Other writers point out that woven, knit and knotted
textiles survive from very early periods, but that there are
no surviving samples of crocheted fabric in any ethnologic
collection, or archeological source prior to 1800. These
writers point to the tambour hooks used in tambour
embroidery in France in the seventeenth century, and contend
that the hooking of loops through fine fabric in tambour
work evolved into "crochet in the air." Most samples of
early work claimed to be crochet turn out to actually be
samples of
naalebinding.
Beginning in the
1800s in Europe, crochet began to be used as a less
costly substitute for lace. It required minimal equipment
and supplies, all easily accessible to all classes. At this
time, thread spun from natural fibers was used without
dyeing, and worked with handmade hooks of ivory, brass, or
hardwood. Those that survive to this day are often ornately
carved or inlaid with mother-of-pearl.
Early history
Around the world, crochet became a thriving cottage
industry, supporting communities whose traditional
livelihoods had been displaced by imperialism. The finished
items were purchased mainly by the emerging middle class.
The introduction of crochet as an imitation of a
status symbol, rather than a unique craft in its own
right, had stigmatized the practice as common. Those who
could afford true lace disdained crochet as a cheap copy.
This impression was partially mitigated by Queen Victoria,
who conspicuously purchased Irish-made crochet lace and even
learned to crochet herself. Irish crochet lace was boosted
by Mlle. Riego de la Branchardiere around 1845 who published
patterns and instructions for reproducing bobbin and needle
lace via crochet.
From 1800 to 1950, crochet was done almost exclusively in
thread. Crochet in the round or filet crochet, worked in
rows of 'open' or 'closed' mesh to create patterns, were
most common. Mass-produced steel hooks were used to work the
thread beginning in about 1900.
