Ruehl No.925 (marketed as " RUEHL No.925" [4]),
or simply Ruehl is an upscale
American
lifestyle brand from
Abercrombie & Fitch It
is inspired by the artistic and cultural heritage of
New York City's Greenwich Village. The brand is
designed for post-graduate individuals aged 22 through
35, retaining consumer basis past collegiate consumers
for the A&F company. [4]
Ruehl retails its
apparel,
leather goods, and
lifestyle accessories
through its stores and ruehl.com. Citing the current
economic environment, in June 2009 Abercrombie & Fitch
announced that it would close all 29 Ruehl locations by
January 2010.[5]
History
Fictional background
A fictional Ruehl family was invented by Abercrombie
& Fitch to help tie together the elements of the Ruehl
brand.[6]
Abercrombie & Fitch publicity material presents them as
a family of German immigrants who started a leathergoods
shop at the nonexistent address of 925 Greenwich Street
in Greenwich Village. There exist no building numbers
past the 800s on Greenwich Street and there are no
records of an established Ruehl family in the Village.[6]
There is nothing very German about the name, in the same
sense that sister brand Gilly Hicks is not Australian,
although both claim to have roots to those cultures. The
name "Ruehl" is a variation of the German last name "Ruhl."[7]
Development
CEO and Chairman of Abercrombie & Fitch,
Mike Jeffries, stated that Ruehl took years of
planning, mainly for the store's atmosphere and image.
From the start, the Company (A&F) was determined to keep
their new brand concept veiled from public eyes. [8]
Retail analysts viewed this as peculiar. [9]
Not even retail landlords approached for space were told
about the concept. John C. Shroder (COO of Westfield San
Francisco Centre's U.S. operations) confessed that it
was A&F's reputation which gave him the confidence to
"sign up Ruehl sight-unseen." Despite the secretive
nature, rumors circulated about a "distinct departure"
from the A&F style.[9]
It was evident that A&F sought to maintain consumers
past ages 18 through 22.[9]
The concept was to venture out as more mature and
sophisticated, all the while keeping it youthful.[9]
Encouraging studies revealed that 35-to-40-year-olds
shop to look 25.[9]
The brand was privately unveiled to investors-only on
"Investor Day" September 7, 2004.[9]
The presentation was at Garden State Plaza in
New Jersey.[9]
At the introduction and press tour of the Westfield
Garden State Plaza location, Jeffries noted that Ruehl
is "the fantasy of what it's like to graduate from
college and go to New York and make it. It's the New
York fantasy."[10]
He also repeatedly referred to Ruehl as "the movie"
because of its elaborate, flowing background.[10]
Launch
Ruehl No.925 finally opened on September 24, 2004
with three locations. These were at Garden State Plaza
(New Jersey), Woodfield Mall (Illinois), and the
International Plaza (Florida). Designed to look and feel
like Greenwich Village, Ruehl really presented a new,
"more sophisticated" lifestyle than other Abercrombie &
Fitch brands. The store prototype of this time was a
two-floor prototype measuring at 9,500 sq ft (880 m2).[11]
Due to its structural form and size, locations capable
of housing the prototype became hard to acquire.[11]
Mike Jeffries did not launch an online store upon the
opening of RUEHL. He wanted to attract customers to the
stores to experience the Ruehl atmosphere.[12]
What was launched was a promotional website which gave
store listings, previewed the private online policy, and
allowed for email subscription to receive news on RUEHL.
Original prices upon opening were roughly 30% higher
than at Abercrombie & Fitch (e.g. destroyed blue jeans
$148.00 USD[6]).
Many consumers deemed this as too high for young
professionals who normally begin their careers at fair
incomes.[8]
Post-opening
In June 2005, writer Alex Kuczynski published an article in The
New York Times about her experience in the store at Garden State
Plaza. She described the facade as "something provocative and
different," and compared the store greeter to a "nightclub bouncer on
the watch for good-looking customers." Kuczynski wrote that the store
name conjures up actress Mercedes Ruehl and her hapless roles; "try as
it might, the name just doesn't sound cool." She also criticized the
lighting techniques, saying that the dimness may encourage shoplifting
and that "people at that age [20's and 30's] aspiring to the heights of
sangfroid that Ruehl appears to promote would never deign to exert
effort to find the right size, let alone spend 10 minutes squinting at a
skirt to discern its color", a shame because "the clothing is worth the
time and the money." She said prices were "reasonable", giving as an
example $158 for the best-selling "destroyed" blue jeans.[6]
In early 2007, RUEHL925.com became RUEHL.com
and was upgraded as an Adobe Flash Player page. Also, to
accommodate expansion, a new store prototype was
developed measuring at 7,200 sq ft (670 m 2).
This new prototype encompasses one sales level only,
reducing construction costs and increasing opportunities
to secure prime locations. [11]
A limited online store was finally launched on October
25, 2007. [4]
It sold fragrances and handbags in a limited quantity of
styles. By the end of the year, in an effort to retain
consumer basis, price points for Ruehl clothing were
significantly lowered as so to create a minimal 10-15%
difference between Abercrombie & Fitch and Ruehl No.925
clothing. A&F rose its jeans prices to make a $10 USD
difference between its jeans and RUEHL's.January 30,
2008 marked the launch of the full online store. On
June 17, 2009, Abercrombie & Fitch announced that it
would close all 29 Ruehl locations by the end of the
fiscal year (January 2010).[5]
Marketing and its
resulting performance
Ruehl marketing photography has a blue
color scheme and is
more sophisticated than Abercrombie & Fitch. Noticeably,
some imagery uses angles of Greenwich Village as a
backdrop. Jeffries has made it clear that sex in
marketing is a continual importance in Ruehl
advertising.[10]
For that reason, Bruce Weber shoots all campaigns. He is
most noted for his provocative and sexual, beefcake work
with Calvin Klein underwear and A&F. Photography from
RUEHL's early days evolved from sepia and dark green
color schemes before settling on blue. High-profile
models have appeared in Ruehl marketing campaigns,
including Miranda Kerr and Kim Stolz.[13]
|
Ruehl is marketed with the address:
RUEHL
No.925
Greenwich St.
New York, NY.
—Ruehl No.925
|
The brand has used the appropriate slogan, "Visit us
in the Village." Its main marketing logo "Ruehl / No.925
/ Greenwich Street / New York" has been revised and
replaced with "Ruehl / No.925 / Greenwich St / New York,
NY". It mimics as an actual address. And unlike other
A&F brands which rely on and owe their success to
walking self-marketing in schools, Ruehl must follow
more rigid advertisement techniques to make itself more
known to the public.
Marketing techniques used on Ruehl have not benefited
revenue expectations for the brand. The average RNY
store generated sales of over $3.2 million
USD in 2006.[11]
In comparison to
Hollister's outstanding popularity and sales by 2004
(four years after its opening), revenue from Ruehl by
2008 has not been satisfying. Giving R925 more of a
resemblance to the A&F style (noticeable on Hollister),
but maintaining flare, is a marketing move being
practiced to increase figures (by attracting
same-company customers). Potted palm trees (found in
A&F/HCO stores) have been added instore. The "Ruehl
No.925" name is stamped and embroidered more noticeably.
Recently reduced price points will also make it easier
for same-company customers to enter the Ruehl market,
and the new store prototype will gain faster expansion
than before. Even production rollouts have been made
similar to its sister brands. A&F hopes that Ruehl will
eventually grow as a strong, popular, post-grad brand:
similar to A&F with collegiates and Hollister with high-schoolers.
Customers seeking a more dark and mature look will find
Ruehl their choice out of all Abercrombie and Fitch's
brands.
Ruehl branding and merchandise
 The
official logo for Ruehl No.925 is the French bulldog
Trubble. He is the little "inquisitive" bulldog with a
"steadfast demeanor" and "confident attitude" who walked
into the Ruehl family shop in the mid-1850s - so states
the fictional background to RUEHL. [12]
He was, as the fake literature continues, the family's
first customer (to their surprise and delight).
Subsequently, Trubble became the logo for the brand.
His name, "Trubble", is a play on the word "trouble." It
signifies the trouble that Mike Jeffries and his
development team underwent to create an appealing logo
for RUEHL. Before deciding on Trubble, the company
experimented with different designs on RNY polos. The
logos included: "R925"; an artistically cursive "R"; and
"Ruehl / No.925". The bulldog from the Ruehl background
was finally selected and christened "Trubble" - a sort
of counterpart to the Abercrombie moose, the flying
Hollister Co. seagull, and the Gilly Hicks Koala.
Trubble is today embroidered on Polos and silk-screened
on other merchandise. Trubble also occasionally has a
series of tees dedicated to his iconic image.
Ruehl released the marketing slogan "Get into Trubble
at RUEHL" in August 2008.[14]
Merchandise
Merchandise cycles in stores weekly and there are
four main seasonal clothing rollouts. These are the
Spring, Summer, Fall, and Christmas seasons. In efforts
to entice consumers, books, newspapers, and fresh
flowers are also on sale.[8]
Merchandise is made only available in Ruehl stores and
at RUEHL.com.[15]
The sophisticated Ezra Fitch Collection by
Abercrombie & Fitch released in 2004 and discontinued
later on shares a similarity to Ruehl clothing.
Apparel
Ruehl No.925 clothing is more sophisticated than of
what is expected at college-inspired Abercrombie &
Fitch.[6]
It has been described as "edgier versions of
Polo Ralph Lauren and
J.Crew".[8]
Some Ruehl fashions could very well be
"office-appropriate".[10]
Mike Jeffries however calls Ruehl "100% casual."[10]
The price points at Ruehl are the highest in the family
of Abercrombie & Fitch brands. This fact remains even
after the drop in original price points. Now nicknamed
"A&F + $10" by original customers, there lingers a feel
that the brand has been degraded from its high-end image
(by the drop in prices).
Clothing articles encompasses of tops (i.e. tees,
shirts), bottoms (i.e. jeans, shorts), swim wear,
accessories (i.e. flip flops, handbags), and underwear
(men's only).[16]
Lace-and-velvet trimmed
Lingerie and sleepwear
were also previously offered to women (discontinued
because of the
Gilly Hicks brand).[6][10]
Materials used for Ruehl apparel are of a much
higher-grade (using heavier denim, cashmere for
sweaters, and embossed leather) than in other A&F
brands.[8]
Overall, Jeffries wants Ruehl to be positioned as a
"jeans expert", with RNY jeans dominating the assortment
of apparel.[10]
Inside all jeans is the embroidery: Ruehl New York
10014 (the New York City zip code).[16]
Fragrance and leather
goods
For its
fragrance collection,
Ruehl carries Signature (both cologne and
perfume) and R-4 perfume and R-7 cologne.
Signature cologne is the representing scent of
the brand, and is sprayed at intervals throughout the
day in-store.[16]
RNY became the first in the chain of Abercrombie &
Fitch brands to produce a genuine leather goods line for
both men and women. Because of low purchasing rates,
however, the men's leather goods were discontinued (e.g.
wallets and messenger bags). Women's bags, however,
remain quite popular. Purse prices are at level with
Coach prices for
competition.[10]
However, some Ruehl purses have reached the amount of
$898 USD.[10]
Celebrity patrons of Ruehl who enjoy the bags include
Ali Larter,
Katherine Heigl,
Minka Kelly, and
Vanessa Ann Hudgens.[17]
A favorite of theirs became "Anabelle," a white leather
clutch which "...is everything that this season's It bag
wants to be."[17]
Ruehl Books
Ruehl No.925, in collaboration with its photographer
Bruce Weber, produces what are called "Ruehl books."
These are limited edition photography books. They
encompass of photography inspired by the artistic and
cultural heritage of Greenwich Village. The publications
are similar to A&F Quarterly, a racy magalog also
produced by Weber.
Stores
- The floor layout
- A typical Ruehl No.925 is structured as three,
two-floored or single floored
brownstones.[12]
Artificial windows contain flower boxes, and a black
awning on the 3rd facade reads "RUEHL." Surrounding
the facades are wrought iron fences. Resembling a
home off of
Greenwich Street, concrete walkways line in
front of the store, leading to the two entrances.
Inside, the store is walled off into about more than
ten rooms. Entering the main entrance, there is a
large corridor which divides the men and women
departments. The flooring is of dark wood. To
emphasize a Greenwich home, the women's side of the
store contains the rooms of a normal home. This
includes a family room surrounded by couches and
chairs with Ruehl merchandise displayed. There is
also a dimly-lit bedroom which can be led to the
back of the women's side of the store containing one
more room known as the closet. The closet is filled
with women's apparel with a crystal chandelier
hanging low from the ceiling. The men's side of the
store contains a large room holding Ruehl denim
across the wall. This room is located on the first
floor and can be overseen from a bedroom containing
a balcony. The men's side of the store has the
secondary rooms of a Greenwich home. Men's
merchandise are located into three bedrooms and
overflow into the Garage.[10]
At the end of the hallway separating the women's and
men's side, is a divan surrounded with books and
modern art[12].
Art and marketing photography are displayed as if in
an art gallery. Merchandise is found on actual
bookshelves and tables.[12]
Numerous bookshelves contain copies of actual
antique books for sale, such as by authors Jackson
Pollock and Willem de Kooning[6]
The merchandise highlighted with spot lighting and
lamps. Located in the back corner of the store is
the cashwrap, also known as the Garage, and is
designed to have brick walls, dim/flickering
lighting, and windows to represent the outside using
intelligent lighting techniques. CDs are available
for purchase upon request[10]
and some stores are known to have a burning
fireplace.[12]
- The atmosphere
- Jeffries says the idea is to make the shopper
feel in a unique place, a "private home."[18]
The music mixed for the brand attempts to employ
soft modern lounge/Downtempo tunes with jazzy beats
to personify the jazz-influenced musical heritage of
the Village. The modern art displayed instore is
nostalgic to modern artists living in the early-20th
century Village. The dim lighting projects an
upscale image in the retail world,[6]
and so does the lingering opulent scent of
Signature. In A&F's words, "The classic décor
and opulent ambience create a luxurious lifestyle
inside this romantically lit West Village
brownstone."[19]
Criticism
Kevin Ramstack (division manager of the Garden State
Plaza store) revealed that new customers become
overwhelmed over the number of rooms, "At first, they're
shocked."[8]
The lack of typical mall windows also mislead shoppers'
view of the brand.[20]
A 50-year-old-man (interviewed by the
New York Times) who walked into a Ruehl
brownstone found himself in what he called "the wrong
place" among "skimply dressed teenagers and stacks of
tee-shirts that read Friday is casual sex day ."[20]
He later confessed that the problem was "you really had
to guess what it was until you got in." Quite on the
contrary, a 17-year-old and her friend stated that they
enjoyed the experience of the brand and that "instead of
being in the middle of
New Jersey, we are on a street in
New York, and that is where we want to be anyway --
living in
New York City."[20]
Many retail executives disagree with the idea of no
mall windows.[20]
Some agree that stores similar to Ruehl (like
Martin + Osa) with original and provocative
storefronts attract curiosity to themselves against
other mall merchants, and, thus, aid themselves
economically. However, others contradict by stating that
brands with storefronts as such are merely "shooting
themselves in the foot when it comes to new customers
who are so critical to a brand's success."[20]
However, with concern to RUEHL, Andrew McQuilkin (vice
president of design at FRCH Design Worldwide) settles
that "they [the storefronts] are sending a message early
in the conversation [between consumer and store] that
says you belong or you don't belong...The 17-year-old
who wants to live in New York belongs. The 50-year-old
suburban dad does not."[20]
Also, Kurt Barnard (president of Barnards Retail
Consulting Group) stated that "the risk-taking behind
Ruehl is not only a smart idea, it totally falls in line
with the massive transformation of retail. Newness is
needed. Abercrombie may have a hit upon a way to hold
onto existing customers as they exit their teens."[8]
Current stores
Ruehl operates twenty-eight mall stores, one
accessories store and one outlet location[21].
The mall stores take up the store prototypes set up by
corporate. The 600 sq ft (56 m2)[22]
accessories store is different, however, in that it only
sells handcrafted leather merchandise and is meant as a
Brick and mortar business.[22]
It is located in
West Village,
New York City, New York at 370
Bleecker Street (on Bleecker between Charles and
Perry).[4]
Future closure of Ruehl
On June 17, 2009, Abercrombie & Fitch announced it
would close all 29 Ruehl stores.
Mike Jeffries, Chief Executive Officer and Chairman
of the Board of Abercrombie & Fitch Co., said:
It has been a difficult decision to close RUEHL,
a brand we continue to believe could have been
successful in different circumstances. However,
given the current economic environment, we
believe it is in the best interests of the
Company to focus its efforts and resources on
the growth opportunities afforded by our other
brands, particularly internationally. While I am
disappointed with the ultimate outcome, I am
grateful for the effort and commitment the Ruehl
team has shown in developing and positioning
that brand in the marketplace. In particular,
the recent strides made in differentiating and
elevating the Ruehl assortment make this an
especially difficult decision. However, all of
our brands will benefit from our experience and
lessons learned with RUEHL. [5]
Legal issue with Levi
Strauss & Co.
Levi Strauss & Co.
filed a lawsuit against
Abercrombie & Fitch in
July 2007 for
trademark infringement,
alleging that Ruehl jeans and other products used Levi's
trademarked pocket design of connected arches. A similar
suit was filed against
Polo Ralph Lauren.[24]
References
- ^
http://library.corporate-ir.net/library/61/617/61701/items/282722/Monthly_Store_Count_History_0508.pdf
- ^
Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) 10-K 2007, "Financial
Summary", p. 34
- ^
Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) First Quarter Earnings
Release 2008
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b
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d
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a
b
c
Abercrombie & Fitch to Close Ruehl Operations;
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a
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Scardino, Emily. "RUEHL:
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^
http://www.all-antm.net/thumbnails.php?album=202
-
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August 2008
-
^
"FAQ".
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Betts, Kate. "Home
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hard to Window Shop Without the Windows".
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-
^
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-
^
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-
^
"Levi's
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maker files another lawsuit, this time against
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