Hair Conditioner Guide

For centuries, natural oils have been used to condition human hair. Modern hair conditioner, though, has a birthday: it was created at the turn of the 20th century, when perfumer Édouard Pinaud presented a product he called Brilliantine at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris. His product was intended to soften men’s hair, including beards and moustaches. This guide explains what conditioner does, what modern science changed, and how to choose among the five kinds of conditioner on the shelf.

What Hair Conditioner Does

Hair conditioner is a hair care cosmetic product used to improve the feel, texture, appearance and manageability of hair. Its main purpose is to reduce friction between strands of hair, to allow smoother brushing or combing, which might otherwise cause damage to the scalp. Various other benefits are often advertised, such as hair repair, strengthening, or a reduction in split ends. Conditioners are available in a wide range of forms, including viscous liquids, gels and creams, as well as thinner lotions and sprays. Hair conditioner is usually used after the hair has been washed with shampoo: it is applied and worked into the hair, and may either be rinsed out a short time later, or left in.

From Brilliantine to Modern Formulas

Since the invention of Pinaud’s early products, modern science has advanced the hair conditioner industry to include formulas made with silicone, fatty alcohols and quaternary ammonium compounds. Some chemical products have the benefits of hair conditioner without feeling greasy or heavy — however, they use chemicals, and many people enjoy avoiding chemicals and prefer a more natural approach. Many natural conditioners utilize organic ingredients and avoid harsh chemicals that could harm your hair. Neither route changes the job itself: coat the strand, cut the friction, and leave the hair smoother than shampoo alone leaves it.

Five Kinds of Conditioner

You will find that hair care conditioning options include a few key methods. Depending on your need, you may wish to consider deep conditioner, leave-in, rinse through, cleansing and hold:

Deep Conditioners (Hair Masks)

Deep conditioners, also called hair masks, are heavy and thick, with a high content of cationic surfactants that are able to bind to the hair structure and “glue” the hair surface scales together. This type of conditioner is designed to restore the hair’s moisture levels and reduce breakage. These are usually applied to the hair for a longer time: 30 to 45 minutes.

Leave-In Conditioners

Leave-in conditioners are thinner and have different surfactants, which add only a little material to the hair to avoid weighing down the hair or causing greasiness. They are based on unsaturated fatty acid chains, which are bent, not straight. Leave-in conditioner is designed to be used in a similar way to hair oil, preventing the tangling of hair and keeping it smooth. Its use is particularly prevalent among those with naturally curly or kinky hair.

Rinse-Out / Rinse-Through Conditioners

Rinse-out conditioners are the most common or generic on the market. Ordinary conditioners are generally applied directly after using shampoo, and manufacturers usually produce a conditioner counterpart for different types of shampoo for this purpose.

Cleansing Conditioners

Cleansing conditioners are a newer category, typically based on a combination of amphoteric and cationic surfactants, that can be used in place of a shampoo — either as a pre-treatment before shampooing for hair that is damaged, or as the cleanser itself for very curly hair.

Hold Conditioners

Hold conditioners, based on cationic polyelectrolyte polymers, hold the hair in a desired shape. These have a function and composition similar to diluted hair gels.

If you are eager to shop for beauty care products, you may want to learn about the top beauty product brands and the best beauty product stores to find what you need.