Stays

Miscellaneous Definitions — accessories, trims, tools and general fashion terms from Apparel Search

In clothing, stays provide structure or stabilization to the fabric. In a dress shirt, a collar stay helps the collar stay put, meaning stay in place and flat, keeping the points crisp against the collarbone. A collar stay is a smooth strip of rigid material, rounded at one end and pointed at the other, inserted into pockets on the underside of the collar. In corsetry, a bone works in a similar supporting way, forming one part of the rigid frame that gives a corset its rigidity, supports the desired shaped silhouette under strain, and prevents the corset fabric from wrinkling during wear.

In regard to clothing, "stays" provide structure or stabilization to the fabric.  In regard to dress shirts, the stay helps the collar "stay" put.  Meaning stay in place and flat.

Collar stays help provide structure or support to the collar of shirts.  A good example would be the use in some types of dress shirt.  Note: generally not used in the button down color dress shirts.

Learn more about shirt collars.

In corsetry, a bone works similar to a stay in the fact that it provides support or stabilization to the garment. 

The Small Strip That Keeps a Collar Crisp

The most familiar stay in modern dress is hidden inside a shirt collar. A collar stay - also called a collar stick, collar tab, collar stiffener or collar stiff - is a shirt accessory consisting of a smooth strip of rigid material, rounded at one end and pointed at the other, inserted into specially made pockets on the underside of a shirt collar to stabilize the collar's points. The stays ensure that the collar lies flat against the collarbone, looking crisp and remaining in the correct place. Without them, collar points curl, lift and drift through the day, and a dress shirt loses the clean frame it gives the face and tie. With them, the collar stays put - the everyday meaning behind the name. Collar stays are generally not used in button-down collar dress shirts, whose points are buttoned to the shirt front and held by that fastening instead.

Material decides how long that crispness lasts. Collar stays can be made from metal such as brass, stainless steel or sterling silver, and also from horn, baleen, mother of pearl or plastic. Shirts often come with plastic stays that may eventually need to be replaced if they bend; metal replacements are less likely to have this problem, because a bent stay holds the collar in exactly the wrong shape. Care follows from construction: collar stays are removed from shirts before dry cleaning or pressing, protecting both the stay and the collar pocket from heat, pressure and loss in the cleaning process. It is a small ritual, but it marks the stay as a separate, reusable component - structure supplied to the garment, not part of its cloth.

Boning: The Stay at the Scale of a Corset

In corsetry, a bone works similar to a stay in that it provides support or stabilization to the garment. The bone is one of the rigid parts of a corset that forms its frame and gives it rigidity, and bones and the substances used for the purpose are generically called boning - a name that likely arises from the use of whalebone in early corsets. The purpose of the boning varies slightly from era to era, but its core jobs are constant. Generally, the cinching and shaping properties of corsetry put strain onto the fabric from which the corset is made. The boning supports the desired shape and prevents wrinkling of the corset fabric, standing as a skeleton that cloth alone could not maintain under tension. Many modern bodices, strapless gowns and lingerie use a variety of plastic boning because it is much cheaper, while steel is still favored for high-quality corsets.

Steel boning itself comes in two basic varieties with different behavior. Flat steel boning, sometimes called just enamel or rigid boning, bends in only one direction. Spiral steel boning is flattish but thicker than flat boning because of the tips required on the ends, and it bends easily in two directions, so spiral boning may be used on curved channels or where a more gentle support is acceptable. Today many corsets use nylon or Rigilene boning, although plastic bones do not have the strength required for tightlacing and are known to warp and bend, often in unflattering ways. From a two-inch collar strip to a full corset frame, the principle never changes: where fabric must hold a shape against movement and strain, a rigid stay is slipped, sewn or channeled in to hold it.

Common Questions

What is a collar stay?

A collar stay, also called a collar stick, tab, stiffener or stiff, is a smooth strip of rigid material, rounded at one end and pointed at the other. It is inserted into specially made pockets on the underside of a shirt collar to stabilize the collar points.

What materials are collar stays made from?

Collar stays can be made from metal such as brass, stainless steel or sterling silver, and also from horn, baleen, mother of pearl or plastic. Shirts often come with plastic stays, while metal replacements are less likely to bend.

How does boning in a corset act as a stay?

A bone is one of the rigid parts of a corset that forms its frame and gives it rigidity. The boning supports the desired shape, prevents wrinkling of the corset fabric, and bears the strain from cinching and shaping.

More to Explore

More from Apparel Search: Miscellaneous Definitions  |  Clothing Industry Glossary  |  Fashion Terms  |  Apparel Search Home