Sewing Definitions — stitches, seams, quilting and sewing terms from Apparel Search
In sewing and tailoring, facing is a small piece of fabric, separate or a part of the fabric itself, used to finish the fabric edges. Facing makes a garment look professionally finished, with the seams well hidden inside the folds of the facing. A facing can also be used decoratively, applied from the inside and turned to the outside as a contrasting piece. Facings are used mostly to finish the edges of necklines, armholes, hems and openings, and after the structural seam is sewn the facing must be under-stitched, close to the seam line, to stop it rolling to the outside.
In sewing and tailoring, facing is a small piece of fabric, separate or a part of the fabric itself, used to finish the fabric edges. Facing makes a garment look professionally finished with the seams well hidden inside the folds of the facing. A facing can also be used decoratively by applying it from the inside, allowing it to be turned to the outside as a contrasting piece.
After sewing the structural seam of a facing, it must also be under-stitched to prevent it rolling to the outside. Under-stitching is done close to the seam line, attaching the facing to the seam allowance.
Facing is mostly used to finish the edges in necklines, armholes, hems and openings. They are also used widely in all other sewing like quilts.
In summary, there are basically three types of facing.
Shaped facing : Shaped facings are cut to match the outside shape of the piece to provide a neat finish, and are often cut from the same pattern pieces. Shaped facings are typically made of the same fabric as the garment, but may also be made of lighter-weight fabric or in a contrasting color as a design element.
Extended facing : Extended facings are extensions of the garment fabric, folded back and usually stabilized.
Bias facing : Bias facings are strips of lightweight fabric cut on the true bias (US) or cross-grain (UK), and shaped rather than cut to match the edge to which they are applied.
An all-in-one facing is used to finish the armhole and neckline of a garment together, all at once. Interfacing, grading and clipping the seams are all terms closely associated with facing.
You may want to also learn about sewing hems.
Some garment edges can be turned under and hemmed in a straight line, but the edges that define a garment's style, the neckline, the armholes, the front opening, are curves and corners where a simple hem would pucker, stretch or show. The facing is the tailored answer: a shaped piece, usually a few centimetres wide, sewn to the edge right sides together, then folded to the inside so the seam sits exactly on the edge and the raw edges of both garment and facing are enclosed between them. From outside, the edge looks clean and self-finished; from inside, the facing lies flat as a mirror image of the edge it finishes.
The construction has several small steps, each with a purpose. Interfacing is commonly applied to the facing to give the edge body and stop it collapsing or stretching. After sewing, the seam allowances are graded, layering them at different widths so no ridge shows through, and clipped on curves so the facing can turn smoothly. Under-stitching then secures the facing to the seam allowances close to the seam line, so when the facing folds inside it naturally rolls the seam slightly to the inside and stays there. Skipping under-stitching is the most common reason a facing keeps peeking out in wear.
Shaped facings are cut to match the outside shape of the piece they finish, and are often cut from the same pattern pieces; they are typically made of the same fabric as the garment, but may be made of lighter-weight fabric to reduce bulk, or in a contrasting colour as a design element. An all-in-one facing finishes the armhole and neckline of a sleeveless garment together, in one piece, so neither edge has a separate facing competing at the shoulder. Extended facings are not separate pieces at all: they are extensions of the garment fabric itself, folded back along the opening edge and usually stabilised, familiar from the front of shirts and jackets where the button stand folds back in one with the front. Bias facings are strips of lightweight fabric cut on the true bias, called cross-grain in the UK; because bias fabric bends, the strip is shaped rather than cut to match the edge, and it can finish curved edges with the least bulk of any method, a favourite for lightweight and sheer garments.
A facing can also step outside. Applied from the inside and turned deliberately to the outside, it becomes a contrasting decorative band, finishing the edge and decorating it in one operation. Facings are used widely beyond dressmaking, including in quilts, where a facing finish gives a quilt or wall hanging a clean edge without a visible binding. In every case the principle is the same: the edge is the part of a garment the eye inspects first, and a well-made facing keeps that edge smooth, stable and finished on both sides.
A facing is a small piece of fabric, separate or part of the fabric itself, used to finish the fabric edges of a garment. It hides the seams inside its folds and gives a professionally finished edge.
Shaped facings are cut to match the shape of the piece they finish. Extended facings are extensions of the garment fabric folded back and usually stabilised. Bias facings are strips of lightweight fabric cut on the true bias and shaped to the edge.
Under-stitching is stitching done close to the seam line, attaching the facing to the seam allowance. After the facing's structural seam is sewn, under-stitching prevents the facing rolling to the outside of the garment.