A cost sheet, calculator, fabric swatches, and blank price tags arranged on a designer's desk

The Number That Decides If You Survive

How to price your clothing line.

Most first-time founders price from fear — cost plus a guess, or a number copied from a competitor. Pricing a clothing line is really a chain of decisions: what a unit truly costs, what each sales channel takes, and what margin the business needs to survive. This page walks that chain with worked numbers.

Why pricing defeats start-ups

Founders go under for many reasons, but a quiet one shows up constantly: the price could not carry the costs. Four patterns are worth knowing before you set a number:

Fear

Underpricing feels safe

A low price sells the first run — and leaves nothing to fund the second. Underpricing feels cautious and behaves like a countdown.

Costs

Your cost is not one number

The factory price is not your cost. Landed cost is not your cost either. The real number includes what each channel takes before money reaches you.

Margin

Margins pay the business

Gross margin is not profit. It has to cover overhead, marketing, returns, and your own salary before anything is left over.

Regret

Raising prices later is brutal

Repositioning a price upward means new labels, new comparisons, and losing the customers who trained on the old number.

Start from the cost sheet

Every pricing decision in this page assumes you have one number: landed product cost per unit. That is the factory price plus the extras that arrive with the goods — freight, duty, inspection — spread across the run. It deliberately excludes two things this page handles separately: the channel costs of making a sale, and your fixed operating costs. If you have not built the cost number yet, stop here — our business basics guide walks through the cost sheet step by step, and your landed cost per unit should come out of the importing guide's landed-cost checklist if you produce overseas.

For the worked examples below, one garment: $25.00 landed product cost. Every number that follows is an illustrative assumption — your costs and channels will differ, but the method is the same.

Markup vs. margin — the confusion that costs money

These two words get used loosely and mean different things. On our example garment:

  • Markup is profit as a share of cost. Sell at $50 what cost $25, and you marked it up 100%.
  • Gross margin is profit as a share of the selling price. On that same $50 sale, gross margin is 50%.

Same transaction, same dollars — different denominators. A "100% markup" sounds enormous until you realize it is only a 50% margin, and a 50% margin is roughly where a boutique sits when it keystone-prices your goods. When a buyer or an accountant says "margin," they almost always mean the second one. Train yourself to hear it that way, because nearly every expensive pricing mistake in a young brand is a markup number mistaken for a margin number.

Set price from a target margin

The reliable method works backward from the margin the business needs. Decide the margin first, then let the price fall out of the math:

Price = Cost ÷ (1 − target margin)

For a 60% gross margin on our $25 garment: $25 ÷ (1 − 0.60) = $62.50. Check it — $62.50 minus $25 is $37.50 profit, and $37.50 is 60% of $62.50. (The common shortcut "double the cost and add a bit" gives you a 50%-ish margin; the formula gives you exactly what you aimed at.)

What target is right? There is no universal number — it depends on your overhead, channel mix, and returns rate. But a useful discipline: whatever margin you choose must cover everything in the next two sections. If you want to test a target retail price instead, our target FOB price calculator runs the same math in reverse — from retail price back to the maximum you can pay a factory.

Keystone and the channel math

Where you sell changes the price you can charge. The same garment lives in different channels at different prices — and "keystone" is the convention that ties them together.

  • Keystone pricing means retailing at double wholesale — a $50 wholesale price keystones to $100 on the store floor. It is a long-standing retail convention, not a law or a guarantee of profit. Many retailers use it as a starting point and adjust.
  • Wholesale gets you volume and shelf presence at roughly half of retail — before your own costs.
  • Direct-to-consumer gets you the full retail price — before the costs of generating and fulfilling each order yourself.

Two worked comparisons on our garment, priced for wholesale at $50 (landed cost $25, retail $100 keystoned):

  • Selling wholesale at $50: gross profit is $25 per unit — a 50% gross margin. Clean, but remember what it must cover: sampling, trade shows, sales commissions, and every unit a store returns or marks down.
  • Selling DTC at $100: gross profit looks like $75 — a 75% gross margin — until the channel costs in the next section take their share.

Neither channel is "better." The honest comparison is contribution per unit — price minus product and channel costs — the framework our selling guide covers in detail. The pricing decision is making sure both prices work before you commit to either channel.

The costs that eat your margin

A price tag is a starting point. Here is an illustrative stack of what might come out of a $100 DTC sale — assumption amounts, not industry benchmarks:

Payment processing — about $3

Assume a 3% processing fee for this example — $3 on a $100 order. Small money per sale, real money across a season.

Fulfillment & shipping — about $10

Pick, pack, mailer, and postage. Free shipping is a pricing decision — it means building it into the tag, not absorbing it silently.

Returns allowance — about $6

A share of orders comes back. Assume a returns-cost allowance of 6% of sales revenue for this example — an illustrative cost budget, not a customer return rate — spread per unit sold so it doesn't arrive as a lump of unwelcome news.

Marketing — $15 or more

The cost of acquiring the customer. In DTC this is the line founders forget most, and the one that decides whether DTC beats wholesale.

Subtotal on the illustrative stack: roughly $34 out of the $100 sale. That $75 of gross profit is now about $41 of contribution — money toward fixed costs and, eventually, profit — before overhead, before your salary, before the sample run that never sold. Discounting makes all of it worse: drop the price 20% and the percentage-based lines shrink with revenue (3% processing and the 6% returns allowance come to $2.40 and $4.80 on an $80 sale) while fulfillment and marketing hold near $10 and $15 — a channel stack of about $32.20 leaves only about $22.80 of contribution from the same garment, versus roughly $41 at full price. Discounts are not free marketing; they are the most expensive line in the stack.

Wholesale has its own eaters — chargebacks, markdown support, sales commissions — they are just quieter. The break-even planner is built for exactly this: it folds one-time costs, per-unit costs, fees, clearance value, and planned sell-through into one break-even number for a style or a whole collection.

Margin, contribution, and break-even

Three different numbers, in order of when you learn them:

  • Gross profit is price minus product cost; gross margin is that profit as a percentage of price. They tell you the garment is worth selling.
  • Contribution is price minus product cost minus channel costs. It tells you the channel is worth selling through.
  • Break-even is the point where contribution covers fixed costs — sampling, patterns, photography, your rent, your time. It tells you the business is worth doing at all.

A collection can be profitable per unit and still lose money overall — that is a sell-through problem, and it is why ordering quantity matters as much as setting price. Before committing to a production quantity, compare factory price tiers with the price break calculator, which weighs a larger order's lower unit cost against freight, duty, and the clearance value of unsold units.

"A price that sells out your first run but can't fund your second isn't a price. It's a countdown."

Start-up pricing mistakes

  • Pricing from fear. The cheapest position in a market is the hardest to fund growth from — and the easiest for a bigger competitor to crush.
  • Copying a competitor's price. You cannot see their cost sheet. Their price may already be wrong for them.
  • Forgetting the channel stack. A 70% gross margin that leaves $20 of contribution after marketing and returns is not a 70% business.
  • Treating wholesale and DTC as the same price. One price for two channels means one of them is mispriced.
  • Ignoring quantity risk. The cheapest unit price on a bigger order is only cheap if you sell the units. Price the order, not just the garment.
  • Never re-pricing. Costs change — freight, duty, and fabric move. Review margins every season; a price set in year one will quietly go negative in year three.