Johnny Collar

A small open V collar on polo-style tops.

Close-up of a Johnny collar with a small open V on a knit polo top

A Johnny collar is a small, soft collar set around a short, open V-shaped placket that has no buttons — a collar that lies open in a neat V at the front of the neck. It is the defining detail of the Johnny-collar shirt: a polo-style knit top that keeps the polo's collar but drops the buttoned placket, giving a cleaner, more minimal neckline. The style is named for its mid-century American sportswear origins and revives regularly in both men's and women's knitwear.

Between a Polo and a V-Neck

The Johnny collar occupies a precise middle ground. A polo shirt has a collar plus a buttoned placket; a V-neck has the V but no collar. The Johnny collar has both the collar and the open V — the placket is a short slit, usually a few inches deep, finished with facings, and the little ribbed or self-fabric collar stands softly around it. Unbuttoned by design, it reads more polished than a plain V-neck and less sporty than a polo.

Because there are no buttons, the depth of the V is fixed by the pattern — worth checking when buying, since Johnny collars range from a modest slit to a deep retro plunge.

Wearing the Johnny Collar

FAQs

How is a Johnny collar different from a polo collar?
A polo's placket buttons up; a Johnny collar's short V placket has no buttons and is always worn open.
Is a Johnny collar the same as a camp collar?
No. A camp collar is a woven shirt collar that lies flat in a wide notch; a Johnny collar is a small soft knit collar around a short buttonless V.
Can a Johnny collar be worn closed?
There is nothing to close it with — the open V is the design. Some modern versions add a hidden zip, but the classic form is simply open.