A cocktail ring is a large, dramatic ring dominated by one oversized centre stone - or a cluster built to look like one - raised high on the band and surrounded, in many designs, by a halo of smaller stones. It is jewellery as exclamation mark: a single ring designed to be noticed, traditionally worn on its own on the right hand or the index or middle finger.
A Prohibition-Era Original
The cocktail ring appeared in the United States in the 1920s, during Prohibition, when women wore large, conspicuous rings to the illegal cocktail parties of the era - the ring, like the occasion, was a statement of defiance and glamour. The style returned strongly in the 1940s and 1950s, and again whenever bold jewellery comes back into fashion.
Classic cocktail rings use big coloured stones - amethyst, citrine, topaz, aquamarine or crystal - because colour gives size at a more accessible price than a diamond of the same scale, and the raised setting lifts the stone to catch light from above. The band is usually simple, since all the architecture is in the head of the ring.
- Single-stone cocktail rings - one huge faceted stone, high-set.
- Cluster cocktail rings - many stones built into one large dome or flower.
- Halo cocktail rings - a centre stone ringed by smaller contrasting stones.
Wearing a Cocktail Ring
One cocktail ring is the outfit's jewellery decision; it does not need, and rarely survives, competition. Wear it alone on its hand, keep nails and other rings simple, and give the stone room - it suits bare arms and evening or occasion dress best. Because the setting is high, cocktail rings catch on clothing and are best kept for occasions rather than continuous everyday wear; store them separately so the big stone cannot scratch other pieces.
Judging the Centre Stone
With a cocktail ring, judge the stone before the setting. Look at it in daylight as well as shop light: a big stone shows its colour, clarity and any inclusions honestly, and coloured stones that look rich under jeweller's lamps can look washed out outdoors. Check that the stone sits level and tight in its raised setting, and look at the gallery - the structure under the stone - which should be neat and strong, because a high setting takes knocks from above and from the sides. A cocktail ring is often the most valuable single piece in a fashion jewellery collection, so it earns the same careful buying as an engagement ring.
FAQs
- Which hand is a cocktail ring worn on?
- Traditionally the right hand, so it does not compete with engagement and wedding rings - but it is a style convention, not a rule.
- Why are cocktail rings so big?
- They were created in the 1920s as conspicuous, glamorous statements for cocktail parties. The oversized stone is the entire point of the design.
- Can a cocktail ring be worn every day?
- It can, but the high, large setting knocks and catches easily. Most wearers keep cocktail rings for occasions and store them separately.