Pilling

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Fabric pilling is a common problem, particularly with natural fibers such as cotton, wool and linen: small fibers form tiny balls — pills — on the fabric surface, making it look worn and unattractive. A certain amount of pilling is typically acceptable, but heavy pilling is a quality defect. Pilling is caused by abrasion and friction — in the washing machine, in wear against other fabrics, or in storage in a pile or a cramped space — and it is worse in low-quality, loosely woven fabrics.

Fabric pilling is a common problem with many fabrics, particularly those made of natural fibers such as cotton, wool, and linen.  It occurs when small fibers, or “pills,” form on the surface of the fabric. These pills, which look like tiny balls, can make the fabric appear worn and unattractive. A certain amount of pilling is typically acceptable.  However, it can also be a quality defect if too much exists (depending on the type of fabric).

Fabric pilling is caused by abrasion or friction of the fibers. This can happen when clothes are washed in a washing machine, when they are worn and rubbed against other fabrics, or when they are stored in a pile or in a cramped space. Pilling can also occur when clothing is made of a low-quality, loosely-woven fabric.

Fortunately, there are several steps that can be taken to prevent pilling. The best way to reduce the risk is to buy quality fabrics in the first place. Look for fabrics that are tightly woven, with a high thread count. Additionally, it is important to wash clothes properly. Use the correct settings on the washing machine and avoid washing items with heavy fabrics; use the gentle cycle instead.

When dealing with existing pilling, there are a few options. The fabric can be shaved with a fabric shaver or a razor blade, as long as the fabric is not too delicate. Alternatively, the pills can be removed with a lint brush or a piece of tape.  Learn about refurbishing clothing.

To prevent pilling from happening in the future, it is important to follow the care instructions on the label. Some fabrics, such as wool, should be hand washed and dried flat. Additionally, it is important to store clothes properly and avoid piling them up in a drawer or closet.

Consumers should always take the time to check fabric quality before buying. Doing so will help to ensure that your clothing looks good for longer.  Fashion designers and other buyers of textiles & clothing also keep an eye out for fabric quality when making purchases.

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Why Fibers Form Pills

Pilling starts with loose fiber ends. Friction works those ends free of the yarn, they tangle with neighboring fibers, and the tangle rolls into a small ball anchored to the surface by a few remaining fibers. Natural staple fibers such as cotton, wool and linen are prone to it, and loose weaves give the fibers more room to move, which is why construction quality matters as much as fiber choice. Areas that rub in wear — under arms, along bag straps, where garments meet seats and other fabrics — pill first.

Buying and Caring Against Pilling

The defenses work at three points. At purchase, choose tightly woven, high-thread-count fabrics and check quality before buying, as designers and textile buyers do. In the wash, use the cycle and settings the care label specifies, separate delicate items from heavy fabrics, and treat wool as the label directs — hand washing and flat drying. In storage, give clothes room rather than compressing them into piles. For garments that have already pilled, shaving or brushing restores the surface, and refurbishing a garment is often enough to return it to regular wear. Checking for pilling is also part of fabric quality review during piece goods inspection, before a fabric ever becomes a garment.

Common Questions

How can pilling be prevented?

Buy quality fabrics in the first place: tightly woven fabrics with a high thread count pill less. Wash clothes on the correct settings, use the gentle cycle, avoid washing items with heavy fabrics, follow the care label (wool, for example, should be hand washed and dried flat), and store clothes properly instead of piling them in a drawer or closet.

How are existing pills removed?

Shave the fabric with a fabric shaver or a razor blade, taking care with delicate fabrics, or lift pills off with a lint brush or a piece of tape.

Is some pilling normal?

Yes. A certain amount of pilling is typically acceptable on many fabrics. It becomes a quality defect when too much exists for the type of fabric — which is why designers, textile buyers and consumers all check fabric quality before buying.

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