Piece Goods Inspection

High quality garments require high quality piece goods, and piece goods inspection is how a sewing factory checks fabric before it reaches the cutting tables. A full 100 percent inspection is difficult, so a minimum 10 percent inspection of all piece goods before spreading is recommended — relying on the spreader to evaluate fabric quality during spreading is unrealistic. Three scoring systems are used: the ten-point system from the 1950s, the Dallas system from the 1970s developed for knits, and the widely used four-point system.

Piece Goods Inspection: Fabric Quality Control - Terms of Interest to the Fashion Industry

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If you want to produce high quality garments, you need high quality piece goods. When a sewing factory receives fabric from the mill, it is difficult to conduct a full 100% inspection of the fabric. Apparel Search recommends a minimum 10% inspection of all piece goods prior to spreading the fabric. Many factories attempt to inspect the fabric during the spreading, but this is probably unrealistic to depend on the spreader to control the fabric quality evaluation. The fabric should be inspected prior to the fabric reaching the cutting tables.

There are several piece good inspection systems for measuring the quality of fabrics. Their is a Ten-Point System, which was developed in the 1950's. That system assigns penalty points to each defect, depending on the length of the defect. The system is a bit complicated because the points per length vary for warp and filling defects. There is also a Dallas System published in the 1970's. That system was developed specifically for knits. According to this system, if any defect was found on a finished garment the garment would then be termed a second. In regard to fabric, this system defines a second as "more then one defect per ten linear yards, calculated to the nearest ten yards." For example, one piece 60 yards long would be allowed to have six defects. Another system for evaluating piece goods is the Four-Point System. In this system, you should inspect at least 10 percent of the total rolls in the shipment. Make sure to select at least one roll or each color way. The defect classification works as follows.

Size of Defect:

3 inches or less = 1 point penalty

Over 3 inches but not over 6 inches = 2 point penalty

Over 6 inches but not over 9 inches = 3 point penalty

Over 9 inches = 4 point penalty

Note: a maximum of 4 points should be charged to one linear yard. Also, note that only "major" defects are charged.

The acceptable score varies. Many companies use 40 points per 100 yards as acceptable defect rate. However, others may find this not acceptable...

Here is some math to show you an example.

Total Yardage received: 5400

Acceptance Point-count: 40 per 100 yards

Total Yards Inspected: 540

Total penalty points found in the sample inspection: 150 points

150 divided by 540 times 100 = 27.77 points per 100 yards (because the allowance is 40 points per 100 yards, this shipment would be acceptable).

Above are only a few examples of fabric testing procedures. In fact, above is only a short summary of the processes. If you are responsible for inspecting fabric, you really will need to do more research on this subject

Make sure that your company has a very good QC Manager.

Learn about Cutting Department Quality Control and In-Process Quality Control.

You may also want to learn about colorfastness, crocking, and bleeding of fabrics.

Learn about fabric pilling which can be reviewed during piece goods inspections.

ML61308

Inspect Before the Cutting Table

Timing is the discipline's first rule: fabric should be inspected before it reaches the cutting tables, and the sample must represent the shipment — at least 10 percent of the total rolls, with at least one roll of each colorway selected. Defects found after cutting multiply into wasted panels and seconds; defects found at inspection cost a claim, a downgrade or a rejection while the fabric is still on the roll.

One Part of Quality Control

Piece goods inspection sits inside a wider quality system that includes cutting department quality control, in-process quality control and fabric properties such as colorfastness, crocking and bleeding. Fabric pilling can also be reviewed during piece goods inspection. The systems summarized here are a starting point — anyone responsible for inspecting fabric needs deeper research and, in a factory setting, a very good QC manager. This entry is signed ML61308.

Common Questions

How does the four-point system score fabric defects?

Defects of 3 inches or less score 1 point; over 3 but not over 6 inches, 2 points; over 6 but not over 9 inches, 3 points; and over 9 inches, 4 points. A maximum of 4 points is charged to one linear yard, and only major defects are charged. Many companies accept 40 points per 100 yards.

How does the Dallas system differ?

The Dallas system, published in the 1970s, was developed specifically for knits. A second is defined as more than one defect per ten linear yards, calculated to the nearest ten yards — so a 60-yard piece is allowed six defects.

How is an inspection result calculated in practice?

From a 5,400-yard delivery, inspect 10 percent — 540 yards. If the sample holds 150 penalty points, the rate is 150 divided by 540 times 100, or 27.77 points per 100 yards. Against a 40-point allowance, that shipment is acceptable.