Finishing of Nonwoven Bonded Fabrics

Research article on mechanical and chemical finishing processes for nonwovens

Nonwovens may be given one or more of a variety of finishing processes as a means of enhancing fabric performance or aesthetic properties. Performance properties include functional characteristics such as moisture regain and transport and absorbency, and there are many examples of particular methods and types of finishing equipment being used for both nonwovens and conventional fabrics. This research article, in the collection contributed by Professor Kermit Duckett, surveys the finishing repertoire — dyeing, printing, coating, and the functional chemical finishes that turn a commodity web into a specified product.

Finished nonwoven samples in colors with coating and treatment diagrams on a research desk, no people

FINISHING OF NONWOVEN BONDED fabricS  (Educational Research)

Education  Nonwovens

The Educational information in this section has been graciously donated to the Apparel Search Company by Professor Kermit Duckett.

 

Haoming Rong & Ramaiah Kotra

INTRODUCTION

The production of nonwoven fabrics is carried out as either a continuous process, with fiber or resin as the input material and a roll of fabric as output, or as a series of batch processes. Correspondingly, fabric finishing is carried out either in tandem with web formation and consolidation or off-line as a separate operation. Nonwoven bonded fabrics are, by definition, textiles and they can be finished in exactly the same way as other textiles such as woven or knitted fabrics. There are many examples of particular methods and types of finishing equipment being used for both kinds of fabrics. Nonwovens may be given one or more of a variety of finishing processes as a means of enhancing fabric performance or aesthetic properties. Performance properties include functional characteristics such as moisture regain and transport, absorbency, or repellency; flame retardancy; electrical response; resistance; and frictional behavior. Aesthetic properties include various attributes such as appearance, surface texture, color, and odor.

Finishing of nonwoven bonded fabrics can be classified from different ways. Some people believe nonwoven finishing processes can be categorized as being either chemical, mechanical, or thermal-mechanical. Chemical finishing involves the application of chemical agents as coatings to fabric surfaces or the impregnation of fabrics with chemical additives or fillers. Mechanical finishing involves altering the texture of fabric surfaces by physically reorienting or shaping Fibers on or near the fabric surface. Thermal-mechanical finishing involves altering fabric dimensions or physical properties through the use of heat and pressure [12]. Generally, finishing of nonwoven bonded fabrics are classified as (I) Dry finishing and (II) Wet finishing.

DRY FINISHING

Shrinkage

The compression which accompanies shrinkage is useful in obtaining greater basis weight or GSM (grams per square meter) and density, more bulk, higher strength and improved cleavage properties. Shrinkage occurs when the Fibers are wet or dry depending on the type. Shrinkage by exposure to heat is suitable for a nonwoven fabric made predominantly of synthetic Fibers and is especially effective if Fibers are prone to shrinkage. The web is fed through the heating zone on screen driers. Thers are usually perforated cylinder driers with a rotating overfeed, whereby the web is fed faster onto the roll than it is drawn off.

A second shrinkage is carried out if the web contains significant amounts of natural Fibers. The web is immersed in a tank of hot water to promote shrinkage and is dried without tension. Some special synthetic Fibers shrink both when they are wet and when heated. A variation of wet shrinkage, which aids in saving energy, is shrinkage in steam. Needling together two types of webs where one shrinks and the other is shrink-proof results in the formation of decorative raised patterns when shrunk. This technique is used in the production of sculptured wall and floor coverings.

Wrenching

The Clupak process, invented by Sanford Cluett, is similar to the sanforising process first used in the paper industry in 1957. It was later adopted to wet-laid nonwoven bonded fabrics.

Figure 1

The machinery (Fig.1) consists of a continuous rubber belt, about 25 mm thick, with an intermediate woven layer lying on a heated, chromium-plated and polished drying cylinder. The web is pressed against the cylinder at the first point of contact by a non-rotating clamping bar. The rubber cloth is compacted lengthwise, which affects the web between it and the cylinder in the same way thus causing compacting and crimping of the Fibers in the web longitudinally. The web is fed moist, through the gap between the belt and the cylinder. The compacting is fixed by drying.

The outcome of the Clupak method depends on a number of factors. Hydrophilic Fibers are more suitable than hydrophobic ones. Polyolefin Fibers are not suitable due to their lower moisture absorption and sensitivity to heat. Webs in which the Fibers are oriented lengthwise give a more pronounced effect than cross-laid or random-laid webs. The degree of wrenching is increased if the moisture content is high - about 20% - but if the bonding agent is high (> 50%) such increases are unattainable. Thermoplastic bonding agents assist wrenching but the web tends to adhere to the cylinder. Elastomer bonding agents due to their elastic nature almost cancel the wrenching effect.

Creeping: The Micrex-microcrepe process

In the Micrex process, compaction of the web is so strong that the creeping effect is visible and the increase in extension and basis weight can easily be measured. The surface per unit area is larger and the flexibility is improved even further than by the Clupak method.

The apparatus for the Micrex processs (Fig.2) consists of a rotating conveyor roller, the surface of which has screw- shaped grooves in it, and two guide plates - one fixed and one elastic -forming a knee lying against the cylinder. Between these is fed the web and nearby is a scrapper-like compressing device inclined at an acute angle to the surface of the roller.

Figure 2

The web is compacted in the first gap, then raises itself from the cylinder in the relaxation zone to be compacted by the scrapper again. The process can be adjusted to produce a fine or coarse crepe without significant impairment of the mechanical properties despite production speeds of 150-200 m/min since the web is handled dry and at much lower temperatures as compared to the Clupak method. This method is suitable to creeping longitudinally oriented carded webs, wet or dry-laid random structured webs, spun-bonded and spunlaced products.

Crabbing,Calendering and Pressing

These methods are used to improve the surface characteristics of the fabrics, the most important features being smoothing and patterning. The processes used are continuous and usually involve one or several pairs of rollers operating under pressure.

The embossing effect is used to obtain special effects such as leather graining, simulated weave, plaster, brush strokes, cord and mock tiling. Another area in which heated calenders are used is in the manufacture of laminates. Here thermoplastic Fibers, layers of thread or film are placed between two layers of non-plastic web and are fused together by heat and pressure. Such laminates are used as tablecloths, seat and cushion covers. Calenders are also used in the transfer printing of the bonded webs.

Perforating and Slitting

The nonwoven bonded fabrics produced are too stiff and are, therefore, unsuitable for clothing. This is because the individual Fibers are not free to move in relation to one another, as are threads in woven or knitted fabrics. Perforating and slitting are two methods practiced to improve the fall or drape of nonwoven bonded fabrics.

The slitting is accomplished by a roller with small blades mounted on it, for example, in an off-set arrangement 1.7 mm apart, making slits of a maximum length of 6.5mm. Rotary knives with spreaders can be fitted to the roller, thus making an interrupted cutting edge. Polyethylene or polyamide film shaped by splitting or embossing and stretching by the Xironet and Smith-Nephew methods make good air permeable bonding layers for laminating nonwoven bonded fabrics.

Splitting, Grinding, Velouring and Singeing:

Splitting is done by machines in which a continuous rotation hoop knife is guided with great precision in the gap between two conveyor rollers, the distance between them depending on the thickness and type of fabric required.

WET FINISHING

Washing

The purpose of washing is to remove unwanted substances from the fabric. In a wet process a suitable washing machine, using water as the washing medium and occasionally a detergent, intensifies the effects required.

Some anionic washing agents also have the effect of softening the fabric; nonionic agents have the advantage of being universally compatible but are more efficient at specific temperatures. As in all wet and dry processes the fabric should be subjected to as little tension as possible when being washed and, lengthwise, stretching is undesirable.

Dyeing

Nonwoven fabrics are colored either plain or patterned when they are to be used for decorative purposes. Examples are in wallpapers or floor coverings, table or bed linen or as a furnishing fabric. The interlinings for shirts or blouses are also colored to match the top fabric. Colors can be divided into dyes and pigments. Dyes have substantivity for Fibers, meaning they are attracted from their application media by the fibrous substrate. Pigments are applied from a latex medium. Both dyes and pigments can be applied at various stages of the nonwoven process, starting from the polymer or pulp of Fibers prior to web formation.[6]

If great lengths of web composed of a single type of fiber, bonding and dyeing can be carried out in a single process without difficulty. For example cotton and viscose webs can be dyed with direct dyes, polyamide webs with acidic dyes and polyester webs with disperse dyes resulting in coloration that is as deep and fast as conventional dyeing. The only consideration is that the pH of the bonding agent be acceptable for the dye.

Heavy and high bulk fabrics are dyed continuously since jiggers or dyeing beams, which work in batches, can cope with only small quantities and is therefore not economically feasible. It is however possible to dye light nonwoven fabrics perfectly on dyeing beams. Thermoplasticity, especially of the soft acrylate bonding agents, play an important role in jig dyeing. Polyester nonwovens can be jig dyed at a high temperature, but it has been found that at temperatures above 102
C the bonding agent begins to make the separate layers of the web adhere to one another. Consequently the rolls do not unwind properly.

Printing

Due to the increasingly popular use of nonwovens in the home furnishing sector there has been a great expansion of the color range and printing methods. The most commonly employed methods are screen and rotary screen-printing. The nowoven fabric is placed on the printing backcloth similar to any other fabric and printed with dyestuffs appropriate for the fabric concerned, partially dried, fixed by steaming and washed.

Pigment printing is very important since the pigment binders bond the fabric even more. The effect is particularly marked in spunbonded fabrics. A further consequence is that condensation replaces drying and steaming. If the thickeners have little body, washing may not be necessary.

Chemical finishes

Nonwovens are finished with various chemicals in order to obtain the specific property depending on end-use. Different chemical finishes are discussed below.

Coating

Coating is a basic and exceptionally important form of finishing for non-woven bonded fabrics. The way in which the coating is carried out depends on the substrate, the machinery available, the substance that is to be applied and, also on the effect desired.

Laminating

Laminating is the permanent jointing of two or more prefabricated fabrics. Unless one or other of the fabrics develops adhesive properties in certain conditions, an additional medium is necessary to secure bonding.

Flocking

Flocking is a process of making a two-dimensional fabric have a third dimension. It is done by mechanically or commonly electrostatically. Depending on how the adhesive is applied, the whole surface can be flocked or patterns can be made. The adhesives are just like what are used in laminating and include polyvinylchloride plastisols, polyurethane bicomponent adhesives and all kinds of aqueous dispersion adhesives.

New finishing development:

 

Research of Textile Finishing: SOLID-ON-SOLID

Many textile manufacturing operations such as dyeing, printing, and finishing of fabrics use wet processing techniques. These techniques involve using an aqueous solution or bath to apply chemicals to a textile substrate, fixing the chemicals to the fiber, scouring or washing to remove loose chemicals, and drying to produce a finished product. Heating and later evaporating water make these wet processes very energy intensive. Industry experts estimate that wet processes use approximately 60% of the energy consumed in the textile industry. In addition, shrinking water supplies in many parts of the world have prompted textile manufacturers to develop methods that reduce water and energy consumption.

Working in this direction Georgia Tech's School of Textile and fiber Engineering has investigated three SOS technologies. One of the techniques used electostatic powder spraygun deposition in the finishing of 100% polypropylene nonwoven fabric. In this work, fluoropolymer in a fine powder was used in making fabric having an excellent barrier to oil/solvent and isoproponal. The trials demonstrated for the first time that a finishing process, which combines powder deposition and melt cutting can impart superior barrier properties to polypropylene nonwoven substrate. So with the further developments in SOS processing, There can result the elimination of the need for steam generation, the elimination of effluents, a decrease in dwell times in the curing oven, the reduction of water consumption and the saving of energy. These changes can increase productivity and reduce costs[13].

  1. Menachim Lewin and Stephen B. Sello, Chemical Processing of Fibers and fabrics, Functional Finishes, Part B, 1983.
     
  2. G H J Van der Walt and N J J Van Rensberg, Low-liquor Dyeing and Finishing, Textile Progress, Vol. 14, No. 12, 1984.
     
  3. Howard L. Needles, Textile Fibers, Dyes, finishes and Process, A Concise Guide, University of California, Davis, CA, 1986.
     
  4. J. Robert Wagner, TAPPI Journal, Vol. 66, No. 4, pp 41-43,1983
     
  5. Herman b. Goldstein and Herbert w. Smith, aatcc, Vol. 12, No. 3, pp 49-54, 1980.
     
  6. J. R. Aspland and C. W. Jarvis, Clemson University, Clemson, SC, The Coloration and Finishing of Nonwoven fabrics
     
  7. J. K. Vandermaas, Hoechst Celenese Corp and J. R. Aspland, Clemson University, Dyeing of Nonwovens.
     
  8. Frank Baldwin, Precision fabrics Group Inc, Greensboro, NC, The Chemical Finishing of Nonwovens.
     
  9. Metallization of elastomeric fabrics, High Performance Textile, January 1998.
     
  10. Producing conductive Fibers, High Performance Textile, July 1997.
     
  11. Finishing-Hydrophilic transformation key to battery separator, High Performance Textile, March 1996.
     
  12. http://www.nonwovens.com
     
  13. http://es.epa.gov/techinfo/facts/solid-cs.html
  

Finishing Decides the Product

A bonded web is a platform; finishing decides what it is sold as. The article's survey runs from the aesthetic — dyeing and printing a web that began as undyed fiber — through the functional chemistry that dominates nonwoven finishing: hydrophilic treatments that make a hygiene coverstock pass fluid quickly, treatments that do the opposite for barrier fabrics, flame retardancy, antimicrobial finishes, and the specialized processes its references record, such as chemical finishing methods generally, metallization of elastomeric fabrics, producing conductive fibers, and the hydrophilic transformation key to battery separators. Each finish is a negotiation with the web: treatments must survive on fibers that may themselves be inert polyolefins, and must not undo the bonding that gives the fabric its strength.

Equipment sharing with conventional textiles is a recurring theme: pad-dry-cure ranges, coaters and calenders built for woven fabrics were adapted to webs that are weaker and more compressible, and the article notes where nonwovens demanded their own machinery instead. Read with the chemical bonding article, it completes the picture of wet processing in nonwoven manufacture — first the binder that holds the web together, then the finishes that make it perform.

Common Questions

Why are nonwovens finished?

To enhance fabric performance or aesthetic properties — performance covering functional characteristics such as moisture regain and transport and absorbency.

What specialized finishes does the research record?

Examples include metallization of elastomeric fabrics, producing conductive fibers, and hydrophilic transformation for battery separators, alongside dyeing, printing and coating.

How does nonwoven finishing relate to textile finishing?

Many methods and types of finishing equipment are used for both kinds of fabrics, adapted to webs that are weaker and more compressible than wovens.

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