India Clothing Glossary

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This glossary defines the clothing terms from India that a buyer, designer or student is most likely to meet in the Indian trade: the garments of the classic outfits, the weave terms used for everyday fabrics, and the embroidery term behind some of the most ornate Indian clothing.

How the Garments Fit Together

The terms describe sets as much as single garments. A saree is worn over a skirt petticoat with a choli, the short blouse whose collar, sleeve and length can be varied as the wearer chooses. The salwar and kameez form another set: wide loose pants with a reinforced cuff and drawstring under a long tunic of knee length or beyond, usually completed with a chunni, the scarf or wrap that is also worn with most other Indian garments. The lengha, a long full skirt, pairs with a choli as the lengha/choli, and with a tunic and chunni as the lacha. The churidhar offers the fitted alternative to the salwar, snug around the calf and ankle with gatherings and hooks for fastening. Zardosi, intricate hand embroidery in gold, silver or multi-colored wire, is the decoration that can appear across all of them.

Textile Terms

Three of the terms belong to the fabric side of the trade. Bakrum is the coated interlining fabric made from coarse count yarn, the stiffening inside collars, cuffs and waistbands. Ded suti and do suti name two plain weave constructions by their yarn arrangement: two ends of parallel warp with one pick of weft in ded suti, the Oxford weave; and two ends of parallel warp with two ends of parallel weft in do suti, the basket weave.

Terms from India

Bakrum

Coated interlining fabric made from coarse count yarn.

Choli

A short blouse usually worn with a saree or a lengha. You can vary the collar, sleeve and length as you choose.

Chunni or Dupatta

A scarf or wrap worn with most Indian garments. The item can be plain or embellished with embroidery.

Churidhar

Fitted pants with deliberate snugness around the calf and ankle, with gatherings and hooks for fastening.

Ded Suti

Two ends parallel warp and one pick of weft - plain weave fabric (Oxford weave).

Do Suti

Two ends parallel warp and two ends parallel weft - plain weave fabric (basket weave).

Kameez

A long tunic, about knee-length or beyond. The tunic is worn over pants or a skirt and can be designed in a number of styles.

Lacha

A long skirt and tunic combination, along with a chunni, makes up a complete set.

Lengha

A long full skirt.

Lengha/Choli

A long skirt and blouse combination, along with a chunni, makes up a complete set.

Salwar

Wide loose pants with a reinforced cuff and a drawstring, usually worn with a long tunic.

Saree or Sari

Lightweight cloth draped so that one end forms a skirt or pajama and the other a head or shoulder covering. A piece of fabric about 6 yards long and 44 inches wide, worn wrapped strategically around the body over a skirt petticoat and a choli. Worn by Indian and South Asian women.

Zardosi

Intricate hand embroidery using gold, silver or multi-colored wire on a variety of fabrics.

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References & Further Reading

Common Questions

What is a saree?

A saree or sari is a lightweight cloth, a piece of fabric about 6 yards long and 44 inches wide, draped so that one end forms a skirt or pajama and the other a head or shoulder covering. It is worn wrapped around the body over a skirt petticoat and a choli, by Indian and South Asian women.

What is zardosi?

Zardosi is intricate hand embroidery using gold, silver or multi-colored wire on a variety of fabrics.

What is the difference between ded suti and do suti?

Both are plain weave constructions named for their yarn arrangement: ded suti has two ends of parallel warp and one pick of weft (the Oxford weave), while do suti has two ends of parallel warp and two ends of parallel weft (the basket weave).

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