Embroidery Stitch

Embroidery Definitions — definitions of embroidery techniques, stitches and needlework terms from Apparel Search

In embroidery, a stitch is defined by the movement of the needle from the backside of the fabric to the front side and back again, and the thread stroke on the front side produced by this is also called a stitch. An embroidery stitch means one or more such stitches always executed in the same way, forming a figure of recognisable look. Embroidery stitches are the smallest units in embroidery, and patterns are formed by doing many of them, all the same or in combination.


In everyday language, a stitch in the context of embroidery or hand-sewing is defined as the movement of the embroidery needle from the backside of the fabric to the front side and back to the back side. The thread stroke on the front side produced by this is also called stich. In the context of embroidery, an embroidery stitch means one or more stitches that are always executed in the same way, forming a figure of recognisable look. Embroidery stitches are also called stitches for short.

Embroidery stitches are the smallest units in embroidery, embroidery patterns are formed by doing many embroidery stitches, either all the same or different ones, either following a counting chart on paper, following a design painted on the fabric or even working freehand

Common Stitches

Embroidery uses various stitches and combinations of stitches. Each embroidery stitch has a special name to help identify it, and although they are mostly simple to execute, when you put them together the results can be extremely complex.

  • back stitch
    • for outlining shapes
  • blanket stitch
    • as the name implies, an edging stitch to prevent fraying, but also decorative.
  • chain stitch
  • cross-stitch (or X-stitch)
  • couching
    • Attaching a thread to a piece of fabric by sewing it on. Specialist couching stitches: Pendant couching, Bokhara couching, Square laid work.
  • fly stitch
    • Looped stitch, suitable for either repeat or random patterns.
  • Holbein stitch
  • knots:
    • bullion knots
      • Used as filling stitch or in a line. Worked by twisting thread around the needle.
    • French knots
  • lazy daisy stitch
  • running stitch
  • stem stitch
    • Used for lines and stems, but also used as an infilling stitch.
  • whip stitch
  • Specialist stitches such as the Quaker stitch used on the Quaker tapestry
Clothing & Fashion Industry Definitions
fabric & Textile Industry Definitions
Fashion Terms / Fashion History / Fashion Designers / Fashion Brands etc.
Dye & Dyeing Industry Terms
Embroidery & Embroidery Industry Terms
fibers & fiber Industry Definitions
Sewing Terms & Definitions
yarns & yarn Industry Definitions
Hat & Headwear Definitions
Footwear & Shoe Industry Definitions
Shipping Industry Freight Definitions
Miscellaneous Apparel Industry Terms

Clothing Model   Fashion Calendar

Embroidery Machinery Directory

Simple Stitches, Complex Results

Nearly every named stitch is simple to execute alone — a loop, a cross, a knot, a straight pass of the needle. Complexity in embroidery is combinatorial: the same chain stitch becomes an outline, a filling worked in rows, or a flower petal as lazy daisy, depending on scale, spacing and company. That is why stitch dictionaries matter and why each stitch carries a special name: the name is a unit of instruction that a pattern can invoke the way a recipe invokes a technique, certain the reader can reproduce the figure exactly. Patterns are then formed by doing many stitches, all the same or different, following a counting chart, a design painted on the fabric, or working freehand — the three working methods that divide counted, surface and free embroidery.

Choosing a Stitch Is Choosing a Behavior

Stitches are selected for what they do, not only how they look. An edging stitch such as blanket stitch must bind a raw edge against fraying; a filling stitch must cover ground at a reasonable speed without pulling it out of shape; a line stitch must turn corners at the radius the design demands — stem stitch curves smoothly, while Holbein stitch steps in counted increments and stays reversible, which is why it serves blackwork and Assisi work where the back of the piece may be seen. Knots sit on the surface and cast a shadow, so they read as texture and accent rather than line. Specialist stitches mark the far end of the vocabulary: pendant couching, Bokhara couching and square laid work refine a single act — tying a laid thread down — into distinct patterns, and the Quaker stitch was invented for one tapestry's lettering, proof that the stitch vocabulary still grows when a design needs a behavior no existing stitch provides.

Common Questions

What is a stitch, exactly?

In everyday language a stitch is the movement of the embroidery needle from the back of the fabric to the front and back to the back side; the thread stroke left on the front is also called a stitch. An embroidery stitch in the technical sense is one or more of these, always executed the same way, forming a figure of recognisable look.

Which stitches are used for outlines and lines?

Back stitch outlines shapes, stem stitch is used for lines and stems and also as an infilling stitch, and running stitch makes simple dashed lines. Holbein stitch, the double running stitch, produces a smoother line identical on both sides of the fabric.

Which stitches fill, edge or decorate?

Blanket stitch edges and prevents fraying while also decorating; chain stitch and lazy daisy build looped lines and flower shapes; cross-stitch fills counted designs; French knots and bullion knots, worked by twisting thread around the needle, dot surfaces as filling or in a line; couching attaches a thread to fabric by sewing it on; and whip stitch wraps an edge or a laid thread.

More from Apparel Search: Embroidery Definitions  |  Clothing Industry Glossary  |  Fashion Terms  |  Apparel Search Home