Tie-Dye

Dye Definitions — definitions of dyes, pigments and dyeing terms from Apparel Search

Tie-dye is a method of dyeing clothing originally popularized by members of the hippie subculture. Clothes are tied, either with string or rubber bands, into some sort of pattern, then dyed by submerging them or by squirting dye solution onto them; where the fabric is tied, some areas do not absorb dye, forming a pattern. This is known as a resist technique — the areas that are tied resist dyeing. Shibori, its Japanese form, has been practiced since at least the eighth century.


Tie-dye
is a method of dyeing clothing originally popularized by members of the hippie subculture. Clothes are tied, either with string or rubber bands into some sort of pattern. Then the clothes are dyed, either by submerging them or by squirting dye solution onto them. Where the fabric is tied, some areas do not absorb dye, forming a pattern. This is known as a resist technique (the areas that are tied resist dyeing).

Shibori is a form of tie-dye which originated in Japan, which has been practiced there since at least the eighth century. Shibori includes a number of labor-intensive resist techniques including stitching elaborate patterns and tightly gathering the stitching before dyeing, forming intricate designs for kimonos. Another shibori method is to wrap the fabric around a core of rope, wood or other material, and bind it tightly with string or thread. The areas of the fabric that are against the core or under the binding would remain undyed.

Tie-dye techniques have also been used for centuries in the Hausa region of West Africa, with renowned indigo dye pits located in and around Kano, Nigeria. The tie-dyed clothing is then richly embroidered in traditional patterns. It has been argued that the Hausa techniques were the inspiration for the hippie fashion.

Plangi and tritik are Malay-Indonesian words for methods related to tie-dye, and banda is a term from India. Ikat is a method of tie-dying the warp or weft before the cloth is woven.

Patterns

Below are a list of common modern tie-dying patterns

Bullseye

Bullseyes involve a central point which is bound, as though poking the fabric with a finger or stick to create rings of color. Often different parts of the bullseye are dyed different colors.

Stripes

Horizontal or vertical stripes are created by pleating the fabric into several small folds, causing the dye to spread laterally.

Spiral

Spiral patterns involve a swirl of fabric, bundled into a round bun often resembling a cinnamon bun or a snail's shell. Different wedges of the circular bun are dyed different colors.

Random

This category can hold several different patterns, the majority of which have nothing to do with each other; they can be combinations or they can be as chaotic as bundling the item to be dyed to resemble a plucked chicken.

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Folding, Binding, Pattern

Every tie-dye pattern is decided before the dye is mixed. Folding determines symmetry — an accordion fold gives stripes and mirrored repeats, a spiral twist gives the radiating swirl of the hippie-era shirt — and binding determines how sharp the resist edges will be: tight binding and dense fabric keep dye out completely, while loose ties let color creep for soft, clouded boundaries. Applying several dye colors to different sections, keeping the garment damp so dye travels, and leaving it wrapped while the dye fixes are the working controls. Cotton takes fiber-reactive dyes directly, which is why the classic tie-dye garment is a cotton T-shirt; the same folds on polyester would need disperse dyes and heat, a different process entirely.

One Technique, Many Traditions

The resist principle is worldwide. Japanese shibori refined it into stitched, clamped and pole-wrapped patterns of great precision. West African dyers combined indigo resist work with embroidery. Indian bandhani ties thousands of tiny knots for dotted patterns on fine cloth, and Indonesian and Latin American traditions have their own variants. The 1960s and 1970s American revival took the simplest version — rubber bands, buckets of dye, psychedelic color — and made it a symbol of the hippie subculture, which is the association that gave the English term its modern meaning. Fashion cycles keep returning to it, from festival wear to luxury hand-dyed pieces, because no two resist-dyed garments are ever exactly alike.

Common Questions

Why is tie-dye called a resist technique?

Because the tied areas resist dyeing. Fabric bound tightly with string or rubber bands does not absorb the dye where it is tied, so after dyeing and untying, the bound areas remain the original color and form the pattern.

What is shibori?

Shibori is a form of tie-dye which originated in Japan and has been practiced there since at least the eighth century. It includes labor-intensive resist techniques such as stitching elaborate patterns and tightly gathering the stitching before dyeing, forming intricate designs for kimonos, and wrapping fabric around a core of rope or wood and binding it tightly.

Where else has tie-dye been used historically?

Tie-dye techniques have been used for centuries in the Hausa region of West Africa, with renowned indigo dye pits in and around Kano, Nigeria; the tie-dyed clothing there is then richly embroidered in traditional patterns.

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