How the calculation works

Fabric consumption is the length of fabric one garment uses. You can find it three ways, and the calculator supports all three.

From a marker. A marker is the layout of every pattern piece on the fabric. Divide its length by the number of garments it contains.
From pattern area. If you know the total area of the pattern pieces for one garment and the marker efficiency you expect, you can estimate the length.
Known consumption. Enter a figure your factory or pattern maker has already given you, and the tool adds allowances, shrinkage and quantity.

Length per garment (marker) = marker length ÷ garments in marker
Marker efficiency = (pattern area per garment × garments in marker) ÷ (marker length × cuttable width)
Length per garment (area) = pattern area per garment ÷ (cuttable width × efficiency)
Fabric to buy per garment = length per garment × (1 + allowances) ÷ (1 − shrinkage)
Total fabric = fabric to buy per garment × order quantity

Allowances are added together as percentages of the cut length. Shrinkage is the percentage of length lost in washing or finishing, measured as (length before − length after) ÷ length before, so the fabric you buy has to be longer than the fabric you cut. Rolls needed are rounded up to whole rolls. All arithmetic is exact apart from display rounding, and unit conversions use the exact definitions (1 yard = 0.9144 meters, 1 inch = 2.54 centimeters).

Worked example

A shirt marker is 9.6 m long and holds 6 garments, on fabric with a cuttable width of 140 cm. One garment's pattern pieces total 19,000 cm² (1.9 m²). The order is 1,000 garments, with 3% spreading and end allowance, 2% defect allowance and 3% shrinkage.

Length per garment = 9.6 ÷ 6 = 1.600 m
Marker efficiency = (1.9 m² × 6) ÷ (9.6 m × 1.40 m) = 11.4 ÷ 13.44 = 84.8%
Fabric to buy per garment = 1.6 × 1.05 ÷ 0.97 = 1.732 m
Total fabric = 1.732 × 1,000 = 1,732 m (about 1,894 yards)

These are the calculator's starting values, so you can see the result above and then replace them with your own.

Where to get your numbers

Marker length, garments per marker and pattern area: ask your pattern maker for the CAD marker report. Pattern area is the total area of all pieces for one garment, including seam allowances.
Cuttable width: the usable width between the selvedges, not the full width printed on the fabric tag. Confirm it with the mill.
Allowances: agree these with your factory in writing. They depend on how the fabric is spread and cut and how many defects the fabric has.
Shrinkage: take it from a lab test of the actual fabric. See our quality testing page for companies that provide testing.

What changes fabric consumption

Fabric width. Wider fabric usually lets pieces nest more tightly, so consumption can fall when the width rises.
Print and pattern matching. Stripes, plaids and large prints that must be matched add waste, and one-way or napped fabrics limit how pieces can be turned.
Size mix. A marker that combines several sizes can often be cut more efficiently than one that repeats a single size.
Style details. Pleats, gathers, pockets, linings and facings all change the pattern area.
Fabric defects. Defects must be cut around, which is why a defect allowance exists. See our list of fabric defects.

Questions to ask your factory

What cuttable width is the consumption based on?
What is the marker efficiency, and can I see the marker report?
What spreading, end and defect allowances are included?
Has shrinkage been added, and from which test?
Does the quote assume one size or a size mix?

Frequently asked questions

What is a good marker efficiency?

It varies with the garment, fabric and size mix, so there is no single target. Ask your pattern maker what is achievable for your style, and compare markers made for the same fabric width.

Is marker efficiency the same as fabric waste?

Marker waste is 100% minus the marker efficiency. Total waste in production is usually higher because of end losses, defects and other cutting-room losses, which is why the calculator uses separate allowances.

Why does shrinkage make me buy more fabric?

If fabric shrinks, you need more fabric before shrinkage to end up with the length you can cut. The calculator divides by (1 − shrinkage) to account for it.

Does this account for width shrinkage?

This tool applies shrinkage to length. If width also shrinks, enter the cuttable width after shrinkage.

Related tools and resources

This tool is for planning and general guidance. Results are estimates based on the figures you enter, and real consumption depends on your actual markers, fabric and cutting. Confirm important quantities with your factory before you order fabric. See our Legal page for terms of use.

Fabric Consumption & Marker Efficiency Calculator

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