Garment Costing Guide · Landed Cost
The FOB price is where a garment's cost starts, not where it ends. Everything the journey adds — and how to count it before you commit.
In the Garment Costing Guide, every page before this one built the price of a garment at the factory door. But no retailer sells garments at a factory door in another hemisphere. Between the FOB price and the garment's arrival in your warehouse sits a chain of freight, insurance, tax and handling charges that commonly adds 20 to 35 percent — and that chain is the landed cost. Importers who price from FOB alone are not running a margin; they are running a surprise, delivered one invoice at a time.
The discipline is simple to state: build the landed cost per garment before the order is placed, using the same bottom-up method as the cost sheet, and let that number — not the factory's quote — drive the pricing decisions in our margins guide.

Take the woven shirt costed in our cost sheet example at an FOB price of $11.06, shipped by sea in a consolidated container:
FOB price: $11.06 · Ocean freight share: $0.85 · Insurance: $0.06 · Duty at 16.5% of FOB: $1.82 · Brokerage, port & delivery share: $0.22
Landed cost per shirt: $14.01 — 27 percent more than the factory price, before the garment has earned a cent.
Notice what drives the total. Duty alone is $1.82 of the $2.95 added, and it was fixed by decisions made months earlier — where the garment is made and what it is made of. That is why experienced importers cost the landed figure during development, while origin and fabric are still choices, rather than at the shipping dock, where they are merely facts.

The stack above assumes the common FOB basis, where the buyer takes over at the ship's rail. Other terms move the layers, not the total. Under CIF, the seller's price includes freight and insurance to the destination port (duty and clearance remain the buyer's). Under DDP — delivered duty paid — the seller handles everything to the buyer's door, and the invoice price approximates a landed cost; convenient, but the buyer should still know the stack inside it, because a DDP quote can only be judged against a landed figure you have built yourself. Whichever terms you trade on, build the full stack once per style and origin: it is the only version of the garment's cost that a selling price can safely be built on.
Landed cost is the total cost of a garment when it reaches the importer's warehouse: the FOB price plus international freight, marine insurance, import duty, customs brokerage, port and clearance charges, and delivery to the warehouse. It is the first honest unit cost an importer has.
In the United States, yes — duty is generally assessed on the customs (transaction) value of the goods, which is based on the price paid to the factory, essentially the FOB value, excluding international freight and insurance. Other jurisdictions differ, so importers confirm the basis for their market.
Under FOB, the buyer's responsibility (and cost) begins when the goods are loaded on the vessel: freight, insurance, duty and clearance are the buyer's to arrange and pay. Under DDP (delivered duty paid), the seller handles and pays for everything through to the buyer's door, and the quoted price is close to a landed cost already.
The usual surprises are customs examination fees, demurrage and detention when containers are not cleared and returned in time, port congestion surcharges, and the per-garment share of third-party inspection and lab testing fees. None is large alone; together they routinely add several percent.
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This page is one part of the Apparel Search Garment Costing & Production Economics Guide — return to the hub for the full costing workflow and every guide in the series.