Le lange et le
linceul The swaddling cloth and
The first and last garnments. The theme
of one of his earliest collections is also the name of the
company that Marc Le bihan founded in 1991. Like a
dark winter sky biting into the virginal purity of a field
of snow, this Parisian designer likes his horizons to
oscillate between alpha and omega, art and fashion, and
prefers taking one step forward and one step back the better
to see a single reality through two different prisms.
The practice of making clothes lends
itself to the play of light and shadows enveloping the fine
black and white muslins and the long, silver, flowing
dresses which glide over hips showing exceptional cutting
The combat dress and heavy boots which
look like they come from military surplus remind us, if it
is needed, that fashion also permits disturbed dreams.
The customization of a vintage piece or the interpretation
of new material have the same intention: trained in the
ancient art of tapestry weaving at the Manufacture des
Gobelins from 1982 to 1986, then working as a tapestry
weaver until 1990. Marc Le bihan cannot handle fabric
without giving it some of the added soul that is so lacking
in industrial materials. A part of the collections is
offered as one-off pieces cut from old garments, dinner
suits or uniforms, selected for the quality of the original.
A permanent feature in a highly coherent career supported by
solid training: at the textile design section of the Ecole
nationale supérieure des Arts décoratifs, presenting two
collections from 1990 onwards, then at the Central Saint
Martins College of Art and Design in London in 1993. On his
return to France, the Festival international des arts de la
mode at Hyeres awarded him their special prize for his
collection of spectacular dresses cut from mail bags and old
linen sheets. The following year, the ANDAM bursary enabled
him to create his own label.
« Lange et Linceul » produces 2000
ready-to-wear and 1000 couture line pieces every year..
As an artist-artisan-designer, Marc Le bihan has
accomplished the difficult task of developing a highly
personal, profound and oniric universe without conforming to
the constraints of commercial fashion.
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Marc Le bihan Spring 2010