Panne (also called panne velvet) is a silk or rayon velvet whose lustrous pile has been pressed flat in one direction, giving it a high-luster, waxy smoothness. The term is also used for heavy, lustrous satins with a similar sheen.
How Panne Gets Its Shine
Velvet starts as a pile fabric - thousands of tiny upright fibers. For panne, that pile is deliberately flattened: pressed in a single direction under heat and pressure. The flattened fibers lie like scales, reflecting light in a smooth, directional sweep instead of the soft all-over glow of regular velvet. The result reads almost liquid - a glossy, molten surface that shifts as the fabric moves.
Panne vs. Regular Velvet
- Panne velvet - pile pressed flat in one direction; high luster, smooth, directional sheen
- Regular velvet - pile left upright; soft, even glow with no strong direction
- Crushed panne - pile pressed in varied directions for a mottled, textured shine
Where It's Used
Panne loves the spotlight: eveningwear, dancewear, and stage costumes, where its shine reads beautifully under lights. It drapes well and is usually made with stretch today (panne stretch velvet), making it a favorite for fitted dresses and leggings. You will also find it in accessories and home accents where a touch of glamour is wanted.
FAQs
- Is panne real velvet?
- Yes - panne starts as genuine velvet (silk or rayon pile); the "panne" part describes the finishing step that flattens the pile in one direction.
- How do you care for panne velvet?
- Handle gently and avoid ironing the pile upright - press only from the wrong side with a cool iron if needed. Most modern stretch panne is machine-washable; check the label.
- What is crushed panne?
- Crushed panne is pressed unevenly so the pile lies in different directions, creating a mottled, textured shine instead of panne's smooth directional luster.
- Does panne have to be silk?
- Traditionally silk or rayon; today most panne is polyester or rayon-blend stretch velvet, which presses well and costs far less.
Glossary: see the full fashion glossary for more apparel industry terms.