The term “bias-cut" or
“cut-on-the-bias" describes the way a garment is cut.
According to Merriam-Webster bias-cut is defined as
diagonal, OR slanting, used chiefly of fabrics and their
cut. Dictionary.com describes bias-cut as an oblique or
diagonal line of direction especially across a woven
fabric; in the diagonal direction of the cloth, out of
Wikipedia's definition, which is more in-depth, defines
the bias (U.S.) or cross-grain (UK) as the direction of
a piece of woven fabric, usually referred to simply as
“the bias" or “the cross-grain," is at 45 degrees to its
warp and weft threads. Every piece of woven fabric has
two biases, perpendicular to each other. Non-woven
fabrics such as felt or interfacing do not have a bias.
Woven fabric is more elastic as well as more fluid in
the bias direction, compared to the on-grain direction.
This property facilitates garments and garment details
that require extra elasticity, drapability or
flexibility, such as bias-cut skirts and dresses,
neckties, piping trims and decorations, bound seams,
The "bias-cut" is a technique used by designers for
cutting clothing to utilize the greater stretch in the
bias or diagonal direction of the fabric, thereby
causing it to accentuate body lines and curves and drape
softly. For example, a full-skirted dress cut
on-the-bias will hang more gracefully or a narrow dress
will cling to the figure.
Bias-cut garments were an important feature of the
designs of Madeleine Vionnet in 1920s and 1930s and
bias-cut styles are revived periodically. In the Middle
Ages, before the development of knitting, hose were cut
on-the-bias in order to make them fit better. The old
spelling was byesse.
made of woven fabric is said to be “cut-on-the-bias"
when the fabric's
weft threads are at 45 degrees to its major
Many A-listers and celebrities wear dresses and gowns
that are cut on-the-bias. Apparel Search's team recalls
a few designers who have shown bias-cut gowns. Among
them, John Galliano for Dior, Guy Laroche,
Jean Paul Gaultier, and
Written for Apparel Search by Regina
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