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The term “bias-cut” or “cut-on-the-bias” describes the way a garment is cut: diagonally, across the grain of a woven fabric. The bias — called the cross-grain in the UK — runs at 45 degrees to the warp and weft threads, and fabric cut that way is more elastic and more fluid than fabric cut on the straight grain. This page explains the bias and the designers known for bias-cut gowns.
Bias Cut: Cut On The Bias Term by Apparel Search - Fashion Terms of Interest to the Clothing Industry
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The term �bias-cut� or
�cut-on-the-bias� describes the way a garment is cut.
According to Merriam-Webster bias-cut is defined as
diagonal, OR slanting, used chiefly of fabrics and their
cut. Dictionary.com describes bias-cut as an oblique or
diagonal line of direction especially across a woven
fabric; in the diagonal direction of the cloth, out of
line; slanting.
Wikipedia's definition, which is more in-depth, defines
the bias (U.S.) or cross-grain (UK) as the direction of
a piece of woven fabric, usually referred to simply as
�the bias� or �the cross-grain,� is at 45 degrees to its
warp and weft threads. Every piece of woven fabric has
two biases, perpendicular to each other. Non-woven
fabrics such as felt or interfacing do not have a bias.
Woven fabric is more elastic as well as more fluid in
the bias direction, compared to the on-grain direction.
This property facilitates garments and garment details
that require extra elasticity, drapability or
flexibility, such as bias-cut skirts and dresses,
neckties, piping trims and decorations, bound seams,
etc.
The "bias-cut" is a technique used by designers for
cutting clothing to utilize the greater stretch in the
bias or diagonal direction of the fabric, thereby
causing it to accentuate body lines and curves and drape
softly. For example, a full-skirted dress cut
on-the-bias will hang more gracefully or a narrow dress
will cling to the figure.
Bias-cut garments were an important feature of the
designs of Madeleine Vionnet in 1920s and 1930s and
bias-cut styles are revived periodically. In the Middle
Ages, before the development of knitting, hose were cut
on-the-bias in order to make them fit better. The old
spelling was byesse.
A
garment
made of woven fabric is said to be �cut-on-the-bias�
when the fabric's
warp and
weft threads are at 45 degrees to its major
seam lines.
Many A-listers and celebrities wear dresses and gowns
that are cut on-the-bias. Apparel Search's team recalls
a few designers who have shown bias-cut gowns. Among
them, John Galliano for Dior, Guy Laroche,
Jean Paul Gaultier, and
Stella McCartney
Written for Apparel Search by Regina
Cooper.
Fashion
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The same elasticity that makes the bias beautiful makes it demanding to sew. A bias edge stretches under its own weight, so a bias-cut dress is typically left to hang for a day or more before hemming, letting the fabric drop fully so the hem can be leveled evenly; hem it too soon and one side will end up longer than the other. Seams must be handled gently — pulled even slightly during sewing, a bias seam ripples permanently — and narrow hems are favored because a wide hem fights the curve of the drape.
Bias cutting is also expensive in cloth. Diagonal pattern pieces tessellate badly, so a bias gown can take noticeably more yardage than the same design cut on the straight grain, and matching a plaid or stripe on the bias creates the chevron effects that are beautiful but wasteful to align. Those costs are part of the technique's history: the bias gowns of the 1930s were luxury garments, and the cut still signals quality today, appearing in slip dresses, cowl necklines — a cowl only drapes because it is cut on the bias — lingerie and flowing skirts wherever fluid movement matters more than economy.
Cut on the bias: pattern pieces laid diagonally on woven fabric, at 45 degrees to the warp and weft threads, instead of along the straight grain. Merriam-Webster defines bias-cut as diagonal or slanting, used chiefly of fabrics and their cut.
Because woven fabric is more elastic and more fluid in the bias direction than on-grain. A bias-cut garment drapes and moves with the body, skimming rather than standing away — the quality that made bias-cut gowns famous.
No. Every piece of woven fabric has two biases, perpendicular to each other, but non-woven fabrics such as felt or interfacing do not have a bias, as this page explains. Designers who have shown bias-cut gowns include John Galliano for Dior, Guy Laroche, Jean Paul Gaultier and Stella McCartney.