Women's Cloche Hat Guide

A cloche is a close-fitting, bell-shaped hat that hugs the head and dips low over the brows, with a very short brim — or none at all — that flares slightly at the edge. Its name is the French word for bell, and its shape defined 1920s style as completely as the bob haircut it was designed to sit over. Few hats are as instantly recognisable, or as flattering worn with the confidence the original flappers gave it.

Modern women's cloches keep the bell silhouette in wool felt, straw and fabric, trimmed with grosgrain bands, bows, flowers, feathers or a simple brooch. This guide covers the cloche's defining features, the difference between authentic and softened modern versions, how to wear it with today's hair and clothes, sizing, and care for felt and straw.

What Makes a Cloche a Cloche

Three things: a deep, close crown that follows the shape of the head, a low fit that brings the band down to just above the brows and ears, and a short, flared brim that turns down over the forehead and sometimes up at the back. Classic 1920s cloches were moulded from a single piece of felt with no visible seam, pulled low enough to force the wearer to tilt her chin up to see — the famous peer-from-under look.

Trims are restrained and sit close to the hat: a grosgrain ribbon band with a flat bow, a felt or fabric flower, a small feather, or a vintage-style pin. Modern versions soften the formula — slightly shallower crowns, a touch more brim, and fabrics from wool felt and velour in winter to woven straw and linen in summer. If a hat sits high on the head with a wide brim, it may be charming, but it is not a cloche; the low, hugging fit is the whole identity.

How to Wear a Cloche: Hair, Fit and Position

Pull a cloche well down, band across the mid-forehead, just above the brows, with the brim shading the eyes. It should feel snug and secure all round — cloches are sized hats, so measure and buy your size; a loose cloche rides up and loses the line entirely. The classic position is straight and centred; a very slight tilt suits some faces, but dramatic angles fight the bell shape.

Hair is the cloche's partner. It was made for the bob, and still suits bobs, lobs and sleek, straight styles best: hair tucked behind the ears or smoothed flat, with the ends flicking out below the brim. Long hair works in a low, flat bun or a low ponytail under the back edge. Volume, high ponytails and big curls push the hat up and break the silhouette — if your hair is thick, choose a style with a slightly deeper crown and smooth the top flat before putting the hat on.

Styling a Cloche Today and Caring for It

A cloche need not mean a 1920s costume. Worn with a simple coat, a straight dress, or a knit and midi skirt, a felt cloche in black, plum, forest or camel reads as elegant vintage polish rather than fancy dress — keep the rest of the outfit unfussy and modern. Straw cloches suit summer dresses and garden parties beautifully. Save beaded, fringed dresses and long pearls for themed parties; the hat alone carries the decade's reference with ease.

Felt cloches need the standard felt routine: brush gently, store on a stand or stuffed so the bell keeps its moulded shape, keep out of soaking rain, and steam briefly to refresh. Straw and fabric cloches should be spot-cleaned and stored away from crushing — the close crown shows dents more than a loose hat does. Handled well, a good cloche keeps its shape for many seasons, which is more than can be said for most hats a century after its invention.