Fabric Definitions — definitions of fabrics, cloths, laces and textile materials from Apparel Search
Gabardine is a tough, tightly woven fabric used to make suits, overcoats and trousers — and the word also names a garment made from the material. The fiber is traditionally worsted, but may also be cotton, synthetic or mixed. The fabric is smooth on one side and has a diagonally ribbed surface on the other.
The fabric takes its name from the garment, the gaberdine, which is a long, loose overgarment tied at the waist. This was commonly worn in Europe in the Middle Ages by pilgrims, beggars and almsmen, and for some time later by many European Jews.
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A Twill Built for Weather and Hard WearGabardine belongs to the twill family but pushes one twill trait to an extreme: the diagonal. In gabardine the diagonal line is steep — closer to 60 degrees than the usual 45 — because the warp threads greatly outnumber the weft and are set very closely. That structure explains its service record. Rain striking a tightly packed, steep-ribbed surface tends to run along the ribs and off the cloth rather than soak straight through, which is why gabardine became a classic raincoat and trench-coat fabric long before proofed coatings were common. The same density resists abrasion and keeps a tailored shape, which is why the other named uses are suits and trousers: garments that must look pressed after a day of sitting, travel and weather. A gabardine trouser crease survives because the cloth is too compact to relax easily. Choosing Between Gabardine FibersThe weave stays constant while the fiber changes the garment. Worsted wool gabardine breathes, recovers from creasing, and drapes with a dry, crisp hand — the premium suiting and overcoat standard. Cotton gabardine is cooler, washes more readily and serves uniforms, work trousers and casual jackets, trading some crease recovery for easy care. Synthetic and blended gabardines lower cost and add abrasion resistance, common in service uniforms worn daily. In every case the recognition checks are tactile and visual: turn the cloth over and compare faces — the ribbed diagonal should be unmistakable on one side, the reverse comparatively smooth — and hold it to the light; true gabardine is dense enough that light barely penetrates. Loose, openly woven twills sold under the name will feel softer but will not shed weather or hold a press the way the tight construction does, and for rainwear and tailored trousers that difference is the whole point of the fabric. Common QuestionsHow can gabardine be smooth on one side and ribbed on the other?Its twill weave is warp-faced and steep: many more warp threads than weft threads cover the surface, packed tightly in a pronounced diagonal. One face presents that tight diagonal rib; the reverse, where the sparse weft shows, reads much smoother. The high thread count is also what makes the cloth tough and weather-resistant. What is worsted gabardine?Gabardine woven from worsted yarn — wool yarn spun from long, combed fibers into a smooth, strong, compact thread. Worsted gabardine is the traditional suiting and overcoat quality: hard-wearing, smooth-finished, and able to hold a press. Cotton, synthetic and mixed-fiber gabardines apply the same weave to other price points and uses, such as uniform trousers. Where does the name gabardine come from?From the gaberdine, a long, loose overgarment tied at the waist, commonly worn in Europe in the Middle Ages by pilgrims, beggars and almsmen, and for some time later by many European Jews. The fabric took its name from the garment it was characteristically used for. More to ExploreMore from Apparel Search: Fabric Definitions | Clothing Industry Glossary | Fashion Terms | Apparel Search Home
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