Corduroy is a cut-pile fabric with raised parallel cords - called wales - running lengthwise. It is woven with extra sets of pile yarns that are cut after weaving to form the ribs, then brushed up for a soft, velvety nap. Most corduroy is cotton, though blends and stretch versions are common.
What Makes Corduroy
The defining spec is wale count: the number of cords per inch. Standard corduroy has about 11 wales per inch; pinwale (or needlecord) packs in 16-21 fine wales for a dressier look; wide-wale corduroy drops to 3-8 chunky ribs for a casual, retro feel. After the pile is cut, the fabric is brushed and singed to even the nap, which is why quality corduroy feels uniformly soft in one direction.
Corduroy Through History
Corduroy's name is often said to come from the French corde du roi ("cord of the king"), though textile historians debate it. What is certain is that ribbed pile fabrics were woven in 18th-century England as a sturdy working-class cloth. Corduroy became a counterculture uniform in the 1970s - flares, jackets, and blazers in earthy wales - and it has cycled back into fashion roughly every decade since, most recently as wide-wale trousers and overshirts.
Corduroy Today
Modern corduroy spans the wardrobe: pinwale trousers that pass for business casual, wide-wale pants and chore coats with vintage appeal, and stretch corduroy (with a touch of spandex) for comfort. It also upholsters well - the ribs hide wear. When buying, check the wale count on the label or product specs: finer wales read dressier, wider wales read casual.
FAQs
- What is wale in corduroy?
- A wale is one raised cord or rib. Wale count - cords per inch - is the standard way corduroy is graded: higher numbers mean finer ribs.
- What is the difference between corduroy and velvet?
- Both are cut-pile fabrics, but velvet's pile is even and smooth all over, while corduroy's pile is formed into distinct lengthwise ribs.
- Does corduroy stretch?
- Traditional cotton corduroy has little stretch. Many modern versions add 1-3% spandex or elastane for comfort - check the label.
- How do you care for corduroy?
- Turn garments inside out, wash cold, and avoid high heat, which can crush the pile. A light brushing restores the nap.
Glossary: see the full fashion glossary for more apparel industry terms.