Lee Jeans - Fashion Company Profile

Lee is the Kansas-born jeans and workwear brand founded in 1889 - maker of the Union-All and the Lazy S pocket stitch - owned by Kontoor Brands, which agreed in 2026 to sell the brand to Authentic Brands Group.

Company Snapshot

Status
Operating brand of Kontoor Brands - under a definitive agreement (May 20, 2026) to be sold to Authentic Brands Group, expected to close in the second half of 2026; an agreement, not a completed sale
Public or Private
A brand of Kontoor Brands, Inc. (NYSE: KTB)
Headquarters
Greensboro, North Carolina, United States (Kontoor Brands headquarters)
Founded
1889, in Salina, Kansas, as the H.D. Lee Mercantile Company
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A folded stack of denim jeans and a work jacket in deep indigo washes with copper rivets and stitching displayed on a work table and a small Apparel Search tag, product photography with no people

Company Profile

Lee came to Kontoor Brands in the May 2019 spin-off of VF Corporation's denim business, alongside Wrangler. On May 20, 2026, Kontoor signed a definitive agreement to sell the Lee business to Authentic Brands Group for $750 million in cash plus up to $250 million in earnout, with closing expected in the second half of 2026 subject to approvals - so Lee is described here as a Kontoor brand under an agreed sale, not as already sold. The brand's earlier record, from the 1889 mercantile company through the Union-All era, is summarised in the profile below.

The growth, the filing says, was prompted by two product inventions. The Union-All work jumpsuit arrived in 1913 - a one-piece garment joining top and bottom for workers who needed coverage without a gap at the waist - and the company's first overall followed in 1920. Later in the 1920s Lee introduced a zipper fly and continued to expand, and around this time the first children's overalls line was sold: the work garment shrinking to child size, because farm work in this period was family work and the overall was its uniform. In 1928 H.D. Lee, founder and president of the H.D. Lee Mercantile Company, died, the filing records - the founder's death noted in the same plain style as the product dates.

Leading Work-Clothes Maker, and the Lazy S

During the 1930s and 1940s the company became the leading manufacturer of work clothes in the United States, in the historical record. That claim, placed between the founder's death and the pocket mark, is the filing's peak-status statement: within two decades of the first overall, the Salina mercantile company's garment arm led its national category. The category matters - work clothes, not fashion denim. Lee's mid-century identity in this record is industrial: the brand that clothed the workforce, measured against other workwear makers rather than against leisure brands that did not yet define the jeans market.

The filing's one branding milestone is dated 1944: the Lazy 'S' became the official Lee back pocket. A pocket stitch as an official mark is a workwear maker's trademark logic - the garment's most visible construction detail, seen from behind on every wearer, standardised into a signature. The historical record keeps its Lee record at that: no store counts, no advertising history, no later product lines are filed, and this rebuild adds none. The kept photograph of Lee product from the historical record page is carried in the gallery on the history page by reference, and the routes lead to the VF Corp filing and to the Kontoor Brands profile, which is where the filing's final sentence points.

From VF Corp to Kontoor Brands in 2019

The last fact in the historical record is an ownership line: the Lee jeans brand was spun off from VF Corp to Kontoor Brands Inc. in 2019. Read with the K letter's Kontoor filing - kept in this directory and linked from this page as linked in the historical record - the line records the end of Lee's period inside the VF portfolio and the start of its life inside a denim-focused company formed around it and its sister work and casual brands. The spin-off also closes the arc this page files: a Kansas mercantile company of 1889, a national work-clothes leader by the 1940s, a division of a multi-brand apparel group, and finally a founding asset of a specialist denim company in 2019.

Use this page for its filed sequence - 1889 formation at Salina, 1913 Union-All, 1920 first overall, 1920s zipper fly and children's overalls, the founder's death in 1928, the 1930s-1940s work-clothes leadership, the 1944 Lazy S back pocket, and the 2019 Kontoor spin-off - and for nothing beyond it. For current Lee ranges and company information, the official Lee website in the References is the authority. The vintage jeans route kept on the historical record page is also kept, since Lee's workwear century is part of why vintage denim research so often starts with the work brands rather than the fashion ones.

Common Questions

Who owns Lee jeans?

Kontoor Brands (NYSE: KTB). In May 2026 Kontoor agreed to sell the Lee business to Authentic Brands Group, with the sale expected to close in the second half of 2026.

When was Lee founded?

In 1889, in Salina, Kansas, when Henry David Lee founded the H.D. Lee Mercantile Company - first a wholesaler, then a maker of work clothes and jeans.

What is Lee's Lazy S?

The curved 'Lazy S' stitching on Lee's back pockets, one of the brand's long-standing identifying marks, alongside the hair-on-hide leather patch.

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Lee - lee
Lee - lee
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