Clothing Definitions — definitions of garments and clothing terms from Apparel Search
The chemise, called a smock or shift in the 16th century, was a simple garment worn next to the skin to protect clothing from sweat and body oils. Chemise is the French term for the shirt-like undergarment that nearly everyone once wore as the washable layer between body and expensive outer clothes, typically of linen — in finer versions of handkerchief-weight linen — hanging to about knee or calf length. This page explains the varieties of 16th-century smocks, how the chemise changed with fashion, and its modern meanings as an undergarment and a loose straight dress.
A chemise or shift was the foundation of most multilayered garments. As such it varied from utilitarian to decorative according to type of material used and visibility. It was used in various forms from early 10th century to 15th century Italian through to the end of our period. In the Middle Ages and Renaissance, it was usually the only piece of clothing that was washed regularly.
The earliest smocks were simple shirt-like garments, and came into being in Anglo-Saxon times. Many European countries also used smocking on their garments. They gradually developed in the 18th and early 19th century into a fuller garment with much more room to move while working. The fullness was gathered in tubes or reeds at both back and front. These garments, known as 'smock frocks, were worn in England by the shepherds, carters and wagoners in the 1700s. Not much is recorded of the wearing apparel of the working class up to this period, but occasionally in paintings of rural life one can see them.
Smocks were made of fine linen; many of the better quality smocks were made of what we now call "handkerchief-weight" linen. These smocks hung to just about knee to calf-length, on average. There were several varieties of smocks worn in the 16th century; below is a listing of the main types.
SHIRT SMOCKS are thus named because they are similar to a nobleman's shirt and have a short opening at the front. They are usually shorter than round frocks.
COAT SMOCKS were worn mainly by the Welsh shepherds. They were buttoned at the front and had a large, cape-like collar to protect the wearer from the wet and misty conditions in Wales. They were knee length or longer and usually made of wool.
The tradition of wearing a smock had declined by the
1800's, and it was rare to see them being worn after this
time. It was about then that smocking became a fashion statement
on tea gowns, children's wear and nightdresses. When lawn
tennis became popular in the 1800's, bodices were smocked
with silk and caught at the waist by a sash. Today, once
more, smocking is very popular on babies
and children's wear.
Do you know the difference between a chemise and a cami top?
| The above article is licensed under the GNU Free Documentation License. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/chemise). Definition modified by Apparel Search 10/30/04 |
Sixteenth-century smocks came in several recognized varieties, differing in collar, neck opening and decoration. The round smock, with a Peter Pan collar and a generous opening that made it easy to slip on, was considered the most traditional form; smocking gathers at the back, front, sleeves and wrists controlled the fullness of the linen and gave the garment its English name. Better chemises carried embroidery at neck and cuff — the only parts that showed beneath a gown — making the humble washable layer a quiet place to display fine needlework.
A chemise is a simple, loose undergarment worn next to the skin, historically of linen, hanging from the shoulders to about the knees. In earlier English it was called a smock or shift; its job was to absorb sweat and body oils so outer clothing needed washing less often.
Outer garments of wool and silk were hard to wash and expensive, while a linen chemise could be laundered frequently. Wearing a washable layer against the skin protected the whole wardrobe, which is why the chemise was the foundation garment of dress for centuries.
Today chemise names both a slip-like undergarment or nightdress, usually straight and sleeveless on shoulder straps, and the chemise dress — a loose, straight dress style without a defined waist that takes its name and shape from the undergarment.