A mandilion or mandelion is
a loose men's hip-length pullover
coat or jacket,
open down the sides, worn in England in
the later sixteenth century.
It was fashionable
to wear the mandilion colly-westonward
or Colley-Weston-ward, that is, rotated
90 degrees so that the front and back were
draped over the arms and the
hung down in front and behind.
"...sithence such is our mutability
that to-day there is none to the Spanish
guise, to-morrow the French toys are
most fine and delectable, ere long no
such apparel as that which is after
the high Almaine fashion, by-and-by
the Turkish manner is generally best
liked of, otherwise the Morisco gowns,
the Barbarian fleeces, the mandilion
worn to Colley-Weston ward, and the
short French breeches make such a comely
vesture that, except it were a dog in
a doublet, you shall not see any so
disguised as are my countrymen of England."
William Harrison, The Description
of Elizabethan England (1577), 'Of
Our Apparel and Attire'.
Why the fashion was named after the small
village of Collyweston in
Northamptonshire remains uncertain.
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