Fabric Definitions — definitions of fabrics, cloths, laces and textile materials from Apparel Search
Carrickmacross lace is created from an appliqué of fine muslin cutwork on a machine net ground. It originated in Carrickmacross, Ireland, in the early 19th century. The design is worked on the muslin, the muslin is applied to the net, and the parts of the muslin not needed for the pattern are cut away, leaving the motif standing on the transparent ground.
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Carrickmacross reverses the usual logic of appliqué. In ordinary appliqué, shapes are cut out and then applied; here the whole muslin sheet is applied first, stitched to the net along the design's outlines and fillings, and only then cut — the cutting removes everything that is not the design. Working in that order keeps large, delicate motifs perfectly positioned on a ground too flimsy to handle them alone, and it lets the maker add stitched detail inside each motif before committing to the cut. The risk is concentrated in one step: a scissor slip at the cutting stage damages both muslin and net at once, so the outlining stitches double as a safety border, marking exactly where cutting may go. Guipure-style Carrickmacross work extends the method by joining motifs with stitched brides where the net is also cut away in places.
The lace identifies itself by its construction: opaque muslin shapes with clean cut edges, sitting on a fine, perfectly regular machine net, the shapes' edges finished with a tight stitching line and their interiors often textured with small filling stitches. Floral sprays, leaves and scrolls at a bold scale are characteristic — the method favors clear silhouettes over the hair-fine detail of bobbin or needle lace, and it was used accordingly, for collars, cuffs, veils, handkerchiefs and dress flounces where a design must read at conversational distance. Among the Irish laces it is the most graphic: where Youghal needle lace builds its picture from stitches and Kenmare from needlework on net, Carrickmacross builds its picture from cloth itself, and that cloth-on-net contrast is the first thing to look for.
A design is drawn and the fine muslin is laid over a machine-made net ground. The motif outlines are stitched through both layers, decorative filling stitches are added inside the motifs, and then the muslin outside the outlines is carefully cut away. What remains is a muslin picture held on net — appliqué and cutwork combined.
Both are Irish laces built on machine net, but the technique on the net differs: Limerick lace is embroidery worked directly on the net with needle-run and tambour stitches, while Carrickmacross applies a separate muslin fabric to the net and cuts the excess away. Carrickmacross motifs are therefore solid cloth shapes; Limerick motifs are stitched lines and fillings.
They were organized as employment industries: machine-made net provided a cheap, even ground, and hand finishing — appliqué, embroidery or needlework — turned it into saleable lace with skills that could be taught locally. Carrickmacross, Limerick, Kenmare, Youghal and Inishmacsaint each anchored such an industry in its own town.