Fabric Definitions — definitions of fabrics, cloths, laces and textile materials from Apparel Search
Interfacing is a common term for a variety of materials used on the unseen or wrong side of fabrics in sewing. Interfacings stiffen or add body to fabric, as in shirt collars; strengthen an area, for instance where buttonholes will be sewn; or keep fabrics, particularly knit fabrics, from stretching out of shape. They come in a variety of weights and stiffnesses, and most modern interfacings are ironed in place, though some must still be sewn in.
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The Invisible Engineering of a GarmentInterfacing is the clearest example in sewing of a material judged entirely by effect: it is never seen in the finished garment, yet the difference between a collar that stands and one that curls, a waistband that stays flat and one that rolls, is usually the interfacing. Its three jobs named in the definition map to three kinds of failure it prevents. Stiffening prevents collapse — collars, cuffs and lapels hold a designed shape against gravity and wear. Strengthening prevents tearing — stitching for buttonholes and buttons concentrates stress in a few threads of fashion fabric, and an interfacing layer spreads that stress. Stabilizing prevents distortion — knit fabrics stretch by construction, and an interfacing strip at a shoulder, neckline or zipper holds the designed length while the rest of the garment moves. A garment without interfacing where the pattern calls for it does not merely look softer; it fails at exactly those points over time. Fusible and Sew-In: Applying the LayerThe modern default is fusible interfacing, bonded with heat and pressure from an iron. Successful fusing is a controlled process: the right temperature melts the adhesive dots or coating without scorching the fashion fabric, pressure is applied in lifts rather than by sliding the iron (which can shift and bubble the layer), and the piece cools flat so the bond sets. Failures are diagnostic — bubbling means the bond was uneven or the fabric shrank differently, stiffness means the weight was too heavy for the cloth. Sew-in interfacing avoids heat entirely and moves more independently, which tailors still prefer for fine wool tailoring, heat-sensitive fabrics and soft structured garments. Both types may be woven, knitted or non-woven in construction, chosen to move like the fabric they support: a woven interfacing for a woven cloth, a knit or weft-insertion type where the garment must retain give. The rule that governs all of it is the one the definition states in one line — weights and stiffnesses exist to suit different purposes, and matching them to the fabric is the skill. Common QuestionsWhat is fusible interfacing?Interfacing with a heat-activated adhesive coating on one side, ironed in place onto the wrong side of the fashion fabric — the form most modern interfacings take. The alternative is sew-in interfacing, which has no adhesive and is basted and then caught into the seams, still preferred for fabrics that cannot take heat or where a softer, unbonded layer is wanted. How should interfacing weight be chosen?To match or sit just below the fashion fabric: interfacing that is too heavy makes the area board-like and can show ridges at its edges, while interfacing that is too light adds nothing. Weights and stiffnesses are made for purposes from sheer blouses to tailored collars, and the pairing is tested on a scrap before the garment is cut. Where in a garment is interfacing used?Wherever structure or reinforcement is needed out of sight: shirt collars, cuffs and button plackets, waistbands, lapels and fronts of tailored jackets, areas carrying buttonholes or buttons, and knit fabrics that must not stretch out of shape at necklines and openings. More to ExploreMore from Apparel Search: Fabric Definitions | Clothing Industry Glossary | Fashion Terms | Apparel Search Home
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