Flannel
Fabric Definitions — definitions of fabrics, cloths, laces and textile materials from Apparel Search
Flannel is a fabric commonly used to make clothing and bedsheets, usually made from wool, wool and cotton, or wool and synthetic fabric. Clothing made from it is usually worn in cold weather climates because of the warmth the fabric is known for, and the word flannel is also often used to refer directly to the clothing created from the fabric.
Flannel is a
fabric that is commonly
used to make
clothing and bedsheets.
It is usually made from either
wool, wool and
cotton, or wool and synthetic
fabric. The term "flannel" is also often used
to refer directly to the clothing created from the fabric.
Clothing made from it is usually worn in cold weather climates
due to the warmness that the fabric is known for.
For much of its history, flannel was commonly thought to be the fabric of woodsmen, lumberjacks, and farmers. However, due to the fact that many people in the Pacific Northwest of the United States (especially in Seattle, Washington) have had a tendency to wear it, flannel has become associated with grunge music. This idea was even further popularized by the fact that many grunge musicians (such as members of Nirvana) often wore clothing made from it. For a short time in the early 1990s flannel was thought by some to be a fashion statement (or in some cases an anti-fashion statement).
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The Brushed Surface Is the DefinitionWhat separates flannel from other plain and twill cloths is what happens after weaving. The woven cloth is brushed — passed over rotating brushes or teasels that lift the ends of surface fibers into a soft, fuzzy layer called nap. That single finishing step creates flannel's whole character: the nap makes the cloth feel soft and warm to the touch, blurs the weave so patterns print and read softly, adds insulation without adding much weight, and gives the fabric its slightly matte, cozy surface. Flannel can be brushed on one side or both; bedsheet flannel is typically brushed on both faces for maximum warmth, while shirting flannel may be lighter. The base weave underneath is usually plain weave or a simple twill in loosely spun yarns chosen to brush well — tight, hard yarns would resist the brushes and produce a thin, scratchy nap. Flannel Shirts, Sheets and PyjamasThe uses follow the properties. Flannel shirts — most recognizably in plaid and tartan-style patterns — are cold-climate work and casual wear because they insulate, tolerate hard use and stay comfortable unwashed for longer stretches than smooth shirting. Flannel bedsheets replace percale in winter because a smooth cotton sheet feels cold on contact while a napped flannel sheet feels warm at once. Flannel pyjamas and nightwear use the same instant-warmth effect. Care is simple but consequential: flannel washes well, yet repeated harsh washing and high heat wear the nap down, and the fabric gradually returns toward the plain cloth underneath — an old flannel shirt that has lost its softness has usually lost its nap, not its weave. Cotton flannel can also shrink noticeably on first washing, which makers allow for in cutting. None of this requires a particular fiber, which is why the definition lists wool, wool-cotton and wool-synthetic versions side by side: flannel is a finish and a feel that several fibers can deliver. Common QuestionsWhy is flannel warm?Flannel is woven loosely enough and then brushed so its surface fibers rise into a soft nap. The nap traps still air in and above the cloth, and trapped air is the insulation: the fabric feels warm against skin immediately, unlike a smooth cold sheet, and holds heat in cold-weather clothing and bedding. Is flannel a fiber or a fabric?A fabric. Flannel names a construction and finish, not a fiber: it is usually wool, wool blended with cotton, or wool blended with synthetic fiber, and modern flannel is also made in all-cotton versions for shirts and bedsheets. Two flannels can share no fiber and still both be flannel if the weave and brushed softness match. Why is flannel associated with lumberjacks and grunge?For much of its history flannel was the working cloth of woodsmen, lumberjacks and farmers — warm, durable and inexpensive. Its adoption in the Pacific Northwest of the United States, especially Seattle, linked the same plaid flannel shirts to grunge music in the early 1990s, when musicians such as members of Nirvana wore them and flannel briefly became a fashion — or anti-fashion — statement. More to ExploreMore from Apparel Search: Fabric Definitions | Clothing Industry Glossary | Fashion Terms | Apparel Search Home
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