Textile Units of Measurement

Textile fibers, threads, yarns and fabrics are measured in a multiplicity of units, and this page is the map of them. Fibers and yarns are measured by linear mass density — denier and tex — or by the indirect counts that grew up trade by trade: the super S number for wool fineness, worsted count, cotton count (Number English, Ne), Number metric (Nm) and yield, the reciprocal of denier and tex. Fabrics add their own measures: momme weight for silk, thread count, ends per inch, picks per inch and fabric weight. Each unit below has a dedicated page in this section explaining its definition, its formula and where it is still used.

Workbench with yarn cones, silk fabric, wool hanks and woven cloth samples arranged around rulers, scales and a counting glass, a small Apparel Search sign behind

Measurement is the assignment of a number to a characteristic of an object which can be compared with other objects. Measurement is a cornerstone of trade, science, technology, and quantitative research in many disciplines. It is important to the fashion industry and textile industry for many reasons.

Textile fibers, threads, yarns and fabrics are measured in a multiplicity of units.

A fiber, a single filament of natural material, such as cotton, linen or wool, or artificial material such as nylon, polyester, metal or mineral fiber, or man-made cellulosic fibre like viscose, Modal, Lyocell or other rayon fiber is measured in terms of linear mass density, the weight of a given length of fiber. Various units are used to refer to the measurement of a fiber, such as: the denier and tex (linear mass density of fibers), super S (fineness of wool fiber), worsted count, woolen count, cotton count (or Number English (Ne)), Number metric (Nm) and yield (the reciprocal of denier and tex).

A yarn, a spun agglomeration of fibers used for knitting, weaving or sewing, is measured in terms of cotton count and yarn density.

Thread, usually consisting of multiple yarns plied together producing a long, thin strand used in sewing or weaving, is measured in the same units as yarn.

fabric or cloth typically produced by weaving, knitting or knotting textile fibers, yarns or threads, is measured in units such as the momme, thread count (a measure of the coarseness or fineness of fabric), ends per inch (e.p.i) and picks per inch (p.p.i).

Mommes - regading silk measuremnts.

Thread Count - regarding number of threads per square inch of fabric.

Ends Per Inch - regarding the warp yarn.

Picks Per Inch - regarding the weft yarn.

Learn about fabric weight.

It is important for the apparel industry to understand textile units of measure for a wide variety of reasons. Primarily in regard to the purchasing and manufacturing process. It is important for fabric suppliers to understand raw materials and for garment manufacturers to also understand these units of measure.

Learn about wool grades and standard measurements.

You may want to also learn about the Bradford System which is a method to measure wool quality.

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Why So Many Systems Survive

Each measurement system on this page was the natural invention of the trade that created it. Wool spinners counted hanks per pound because wool was bought by the pound; cotton spinners did the same with a longer hank; silk merchants weighed a standard piece because silk was precious and light; modern filament producers, working in metric laboratories, weighed fixed lengths instead. International trade now forces constant translation among the systems, but none has fully displaced the others, because each industry's machinery, records and habits are written in its own units. The professional skill is not picking a winner — it is converting accurately and knowing which system a given specification is speaking.

Direct and Indirect: the One Idea to Keep

Nearly every unit here belongs to one of two families. Direct measures — tex, denier — fix a length and weigh it, so bigger numbers mean coarser material. Indirect measures — the counts and yield — fix a weight and measure the length it produces, so bigger numbers mean finer material. Hold that single distinction and the whole map becomes readable: a rising number is good news for fineness in a count, and the opposite in a tex. The fabric measures stand apart as descriptions of finished cloth rather than yarn, counting threads and weighing square yards where the yarn units leave off.

Common Questions

What are the main units for measuring fibers and yarns?

Linear mass density is measured in denier and tex; indirect systems include the super S number, worsted count, cotton count (Ne), Number metric (Nm) and yield, the reciprocal of denier and tex.

What is the difference between direct and indirect yarn measures?

Direct measures such as tex weigh a fixed length, so higher numbers are coarser; indirect counts measure the length spun from a fixed weight, so higher numbers are finer.

Which units apply to finished fabrics rather than yarns?

Fabrics are described by momme weight (for silk), thread count, ends per inch, picks per inch and fabric weight in ounces per square yard or GSM.