Fabric Definitions — definitions of fabrics, cloths, laces and textile materials from Apparel Search
Chino cloth is a kind of twill fabric, usually made primarily from cotton. It was originally used in British and French military uniforms in the mid-1800s and is now also used to make civilian clothing. A style of pants, chinos, is named after the fabric — in the US they are often referred to as khakis.
Chino cloth is a kind of twill fabric, usually made primarily from cotton. Originally used in British and French military uniforms in the mid-1800s, today it is also used to make civilian clothing. There is even a style of pants, "chinos", named after the fabric, though sometimes they are referred to as "khakis", especially in the US.
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From Colonial Uniform to Civilian StandardChino's career follows a classic path: a cloth proven in military service, adopted by civilians for the qualities the service demanded. Mid-19th-century British and French forces needed a cotton twill that was cooler than wool, hard-wearing, washable and dyable to a dust color that did not show the field; chino cloth met the specification, and the trousers cut from it carried the fabric's name into civilian life after successive wars put surplus and imitation chinos into ordinary wardrobes. The civilian version kept the construction — smooth cotton twill, flat front, straight leg — and widened everything else: colors far beyond khaki, weights from summer shorts cloth to winter trousering, and finishes from garment-washed softness to a pressed crease. Through all of it the fabric definition stays narrow: cotton twill, smooth-faced, of trouser weight. Choosing and Caring for Chino ClothChino cloth is bought by weight and finish. Lighter chinos crease more readily and suit warm weather; heavier chinos hold a crease, resist abrasion at cuff and pocket, and read as smarter trousers. Because the cloth is cotton twill, it fades gradually and evenly — part of its accepted character — and it irons to a sharp edge, which is why the style crosses between casual and business-casual dress. In sewing, its firm weave makes it a cooperative fabric: it cuts cleanly, holds stitching without puckering, and needs no lining at trouser weight. Those practical virtues, more than any fashion cycle, explain why a mid-1800s uniform cloth remains a default trouser fabric: it is the point where durability, comfort and a neat appearance cost the least effort to maintain. Common QuestionsWhy are chino trousers often called khakis?Khaki names a color — the dusty tan of the military uniforms the cloth was dyed for — while chino names the fabric and the trouser style cut from it. In US usage khakis became the everyday word for the trousers themselves, whatever their actual shade, though true chino trousers are also made in many colors besides khaki. What kind of twill is chino cloth?A smooth, relatively light cotton twill with a fine diagonal line, woven firmly enough for hard-wearing trousers and uniforms but finished smoother and softer than work twills such as drill or denim. The quality comes from the evenness of the weave and the mercerized or lightly finished surface many chinos receive. How does chino cloth differ from drill?Both are strong cotton twills of military origin, but drill is the heavier, more pronounced diagonal work cloth — used for uniforms, pocket linings and even sails in its boatsail grade — while chino is the lighter, smoother dress twill developed for the trousers and summer uniforms that became civilian chinos and shorts. More to ExploreMore from Apparel Search: Fabric Definitions | Clothing Industry Glossary | Fashion Terms | Apparel Search Home
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