Fashion Design

Fashion Definitions — fashion history, brands and industry terms from Apparel Search

Fashion design is the art dedicated to the creation of wearing apparel and lifestyle. The first person who could really be considered a fashion designer was Charles Frederick Worth, 1826 to 1895: before he set up his maison couture in Paris, clothing design was handled by largely anonymous seamstresses, and Worth started the tradition of the designer as both creative head and symbol of the brand. Modern fashion design is divided into haute couture — custom sized, cut and sewn for private customers, governed by the Syndical Chamber for Haute Couture in Paris — and ready-to-wear, standard sized for larger production, divided into designer or createur collections and confection collections designed by stylists for a mass public.

Fashion design is the art dedicated to the creation of wearing apparel and lifestyle. Please see also Fashion for a more complete definition.

The first person who could really be considered as a Fashion designer was Charles Frederick Worth (1826-1895.). Before he set up his maison couture (fashion house) in Paris, clothing design and creation was handled by largely anonymous seamstresses.

When he started his business, his customers could attach a name and a face to his designs once they learned that they were from the House of Worth, thus starting the tradition of having the designer of a large company is not only the creative head but the symbol of the brand as well. After Worth, Paul Poiret started with a concept which is nowadays considered as general fashion design/ marketing and Haute Couture, and is also credited with starting the trend of removing the corset from female fashion. Although fashion itself has a long history which leads back to the early civilisations, the people who designed and produced garments before the late 19th/early 20th century were seen as anonymous artisans, not well-known public figures.

Following in Worth's and Poiret's footsteps were: Patou, Vionnet, Fortuny, Lanvin, Chanel, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, and Dior.


By the 1960's, Haute couture was not the only trend dictator anymore. Under influence of Fashion Icons (like for example Marlyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn and Jackie Kennedy or the models like Twiggy, Youth culture and the independent women's movements, it became acceptable for fashion to ascend from the people rather than be handed down by large couture houses.

Fashion brands not only just produced garments anymore but also started to create their own image or started designing for certain target groups and/or sub cultures. Vivienne Westwood for example "created
the image which is now generally considered as Punk. The Trend dictation of the Old Couture Houses was over.

Modern fashion design and designers

Modern fashion design is roughly divided into two categories, Haute-Couture, and Ready-to-Wear.A designers Haute-Couture collection is meant exclusively for private customers and is custom sized, cut and sewn. To qualify as an official "haute couture" house, a designer or company must belong to the Syndical Chamber for Haute Couture, a Paris-based body of designers governed by the French Department of Industry that includes American, Italian, Japanese, and other designers as well. A Haute Couture house must show collections twice yearly with at least 35 separate outfits in each show. It is often shown on the catwalk and in private salons. Ready-to-wear collections are not custom made. They are standard sized which makes them more suitable for larger productions. Ready to wear collections can also be divided into Designers/createur collections and Confection collections. Designer / creator collections have a high quality, a superb finish and a unique cut and design. These collections are the most trendsetting compared to Haut Couture and Confection. Designer / createurs ready to wear collections contain often Concept items which represent a certain philosophy or theory. These items are not so much created for sales but just to make a statement. The designers ready to wear collection is also presented on the international catwalks. Confection collections are the once we see most commonly in our shops. These collections are designed by Stylists. The brands that produce these collections aim only for a mass public and are in general not searching for new grammar for the language or a new point of view on/of fashion.

Although a lot of the modern fashion designers are still working in a somewhat "traditional" way- making clothes that are very fancy and expensive but still look like "normal" clothing, there have been designers who break these "rules" over the years, some from the mid-nineties onward, some, like Japanese designers Yojhi Yamomoto, Comme des Garcons, and Junya Watanabe from the early eighties to the present, and some now-deceased designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli, who worked in the thirties, forties, and fifties. Fine examples of modern-day "rule breakers" are Martin Margiela and Warmenhoven & Venderbos. These designers approach clothing, Fashion and lifestyle from new angles and explore also the boundaries of Fashion itself in order to create "new" concepts and views for Fashion design. Their collections are not only restricted to garments (ready to wear as well as couture) and other Fashion related products, but also contain work in other media. The works of this breed of designers can also be placed in a certain Art movement.

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Most fashion designers attend an Academie of fine arts. Fashion design courses are considered as applied arts just like graphic design and interior design. Often the types Stylist and Designer are mixed up. A stylist inspires his/her designs on existing things, trends and Designers collections. A Designer starts from scratch; he/she develops a unique concept and translates this into garment collections, other Life style related products or a statement in various other types of media. Some Designers approach their work just as a fine arts painter or sculptor.

Inspiration for fashion designers comes from a wide range of things and cannot be pinpointed exactly. However, just like all artists, they tend to keep an eye on things going on world-wide to inspire themselves towards making their future clothes lines.

Most fashion designers are well trained pattern makers and modeleurs. A typical design team is made up out one or more: Designer(s), pattern maker(s) /modeleur(s), sample maker(s), buyer(s) and salesman (men). For presentations and catwalk shows the help of hair dressers, make-up artists, photographers modeling agencies, the model and other support companies/professions is called upon.

As Fashion became more and more a large business, Designers started also with licensing products. (For example: Perfume, bags and all sorts of products)

Fashion Definition  

Couturier Definition

Fashion Design

Haute Couture

Ready to wear

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Fashion Industry   Fashion Models

Worth Invents the Designer

Fashion is ancient; the fashion designer is not. Although fashion itself leads back to the early civilisations, the people who designed and produced garments before the late nineteenth century were seen as anonymous artisans, not public figures, and design and creation were handled by largely anonymous seamstresses. Charles Frederick Worth changed the structure when he set up his maison couture in Paris: his customers could attach a name and a face to his designs once they learned they were from the House of Worth, starting the tradition that the designer of a large company is not only its creative head but the symbol of the brand. After Worth, Paul Poiret developed what is now considered general fashion design and marketing, and is credited with starting the trend of removing the corset from female fashion. The named succession that followed — Patou, Vionnet, Fortuny, Lanvin, Chanel, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga and Dior — is the founding generation of the modern profession: individual temperaments, each attached to a house, each house selling the person's taste as much as its clothes.

Couture Rules and the Ready-to-Wear Ladder

Modern fashion design divides into two great categories. Haute couture is meant exclusively for private customers and is custom sized, cut and sewn. The title is regulated: to qualify as an official haute couture house, a designer or company must belong to the Syndical Chamber for Haute Couture, a Paris-based body governed by the French Department of Industry, and must show collections twice yearly with at least 35 separate outfits in each show, on the catwalk and in private salons. Ready-to-wear is not custom made; standard sizes suit it to larger production, and it divides again. Designer or createur collections have high quality, superb finish and unique cut, are the most trendsetting, and often contain concept items created to make a statement rather than for sales, presented on international catwalks. Confection collections are the ones most commonly seen in shops, designed by stylists for a mass public, not searching for a new grammar for the language or a new point of view on fashion. The ladder thus runs from one-off couture for a single client to mass confection for millions, with the designer's creative freedom generally greatest where the audience is smallest.

When Fashion Began Rising From the Street

By the 1960s haute couture was no longer the only trend dictator. Under the influence of fashion icons such as Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn and Jackie Kennedy, of models like Twiggy, of youth culture and the independent women's movements, it became acceptable for fashion to ascend from the people rather than be handed down by large couture houses. Brands began creating their own image and designing for target groups and subcultures — Vivienne Westwood, for example, created the image now generally considered punk. The trend dictation of the old couture houses was over. The profession adapted around teams and training: most fashion designers attend an academy of fine arts, fashion design courses being applied arts like graphic design and interior design, and a typical design team joins designers with pattern makers and modeleurs, sample makers, buyers and sales staff, calling on hairdressers, make-up artists, photographers and modeling agencies for shows. The rule breakers remain the profession's research wing — Schiaparelli in the thirties to fifties, the Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garcons and Junya Watanabe from the early eighties, and Martin Margiela among modern examples — approaching clothing and lifestyle from new angles and exploring the boundaries of fashion itself. And as fashion became big business, designers licensed their names to perfume, bags and all kinds of products: the final extension of Worth's invention, in which the designer's name, first attached to a dress in Paris, can now be attached to almost anything.

Common Questions

Who was the first fashion designer?

Charles Frederick Worth, 1826 to 1895, is considered the first real fashion designer. Before his Paris maison couture, design was handled by largely anonymous seamstresses; Worth's customers attached a name and a face to his designs, starting the designer-as-brand tradition.

What is the difference between haute couture and ready-to-wear?

Haute couture is custom sized, cut and sewn exclusively for private customers; an official haute couture house must belong to the Paris Syndical Chamber and show twice yearly with at least 35 outfits. Ready-to-wear is standard sized, made for larger production, and divides into designer collections and mass-market confection collections.

What is the difference between a stylist and a designer?

A stylist inspires designs from existing things, trends and designers' collections. A designer starts from scratch, developing a unique concept and translating it into garment collections, lifestyle products or statements in other media.