Fiber Definitions — textile fibers, yarn fibers and fiber properties from Apparel Search
Alpaca fleece is the natural fiber harvested from an alpaca. It is a lightweight, soft, durable, luxurious and silky natural fiber. While similar to sheep's wool in that it is a natural fiber, it is warmer, not prickly, and has no lanolin, which makes it hypoallergenic, although the lack of lanolin also prevents alpaca fiber from being naturally water-repellent. In physical structure alpaca fiber is somewhat akin to hair, being very glossy, and it is hollow as well, which makes it a good insulator. Good quality alpaca fiber is approximately 18 to 25 microns in diameter.
Alpaca
fleece is the natural
fiber harvested from an
Alpaca.
It is a light-weight, soft,
durable, luxurious and silky
natural
fiber.
While similar to
sheep's
wool
in that it is a
natural fiber,
it is warmer, not prickly,
and has no lanolin which
makes it hypoallergenic.
However, this lack of lanolin
also prevents Alpaca fiber
from being naturally water-repellent.
It also has less crimp,
thus making it much less
elastic. Alpaca fleece is
made into various exports,
from very simple and inexpensive
garments made by the aboriginal
communities to sophisticated,
industrially made and expensive
products such as suits.
In the United States, groups
of smaller alpaca breeders
have banded together to
create "fiber co-ops," in
order to make the manufacture
of alpaca fiber products
less expensive.
In physical structure, alpaca fiber is somewhat akin to hair, being very glossy, but its softness and fineness enable the spinner to produce satisfactory yarn with comparative ease. It is hollow as well, which makes it a good insulator. Good quality alpaca fiber is approximately 18-25 in diameter, and can sell for 2 to 4 dollars per ounce. Finer fleeces, ones with a smaller diameter, are preferred, and thus are more expensive. As an alpaca gets older the width of the fibers gets thicker, at between 1 m and 5 m per year.
As with all fleece-producing animals, quality varies from animal to animal, and some alpacas produce fiber which is less than ideal. fiber and conformation are the two most important factors in determining an alpaca's value.
Alpacas come in many shades from a true-blue black through browns-black, browns, fawns, white, silver-greys, and rose-greys. However, white is predominant, because of selective breeding: the white fiber can be dyed in the largest ranges of colors. In South America, the preference is for white as they generally have better fleece than the darker-colored animals. This is because the dark colors had been all but bred out of the animals. The demand for darker fiber sprung up in the United States and elsewhere, however in order to reintroduce the colors, the quality of the darker fiber has decreased slightly. Breeders have been diligently working on breeding dark animals with exceptional fiber.
The preparing, carding, spinning, weaving and finishing process of alpaca is very similar to the process used for wool.
Types of Alpacas
There are two types of alpaca: Huacaya (which produce a dense, soft, crimpy sheep-like fiber), and the mop-like Suri (with silky pencil-like locks, resembling dread-locks but not actually matted fibers). Suris are prized for their longer and silkier fibers, and estimated to make up between 19-20% of the Alpaca population.[4] Since its import into the United States, the number of Suri alpacas has grown substantially and become more color diverse. The Suri is thought to be rarer, possibly because it is less hardy in the harsh South American mountain climates, as its fleece offers less insulation against the cold.
Alpaca have been bred in South America for thousands of years. Vicunas were first domesticated and bred into alpacas by the ancient Andean tribes of Peru, but also appeared in Chile and Bolivia. In recent years alpacas have also been exported to other countries. In countries such as the USA, Australia and New Zealand breeders shear their animals annually, weigh the fleeces and test them for fineness. With the resulting knowledge they are able to breed heavier-fleeced animals with finer fiber. Fleece weights vary, with the top stud males reaching annual shear weights up to 7 kg total fleece and 3 kg good quality fleece. The discrepancy in weight is because an alpaca has guard hair which is often removed before spinning.
The Amerindians of Peru used this fiber in the manufacture of many styles of fabrics for thousands of years before its introduction into Europe as a commercial product. The alpaca was a crucial component of ancient life in the Andes, as it provided not only warm clothing but also meat. Many rituals revolved around the alpaca, perhaps most notably the method of killing it: An alpaca was restrained by one or more people, and a specially-trained person plunged his bare hand into the chest cavity of the animal, ripping out its heart. Today, this ritual is viewed by most as barbaric, but there are still some tribes in the Andes which practice it.
The first European importations of alpaca fiber were into Spain. Spain transferred that fiber to Germany and France. Apparently alpaca yarn was spun in England for the first time about the year 1808 but the fiber was condemned as an unworkable material. In 1830 Benjamin Outram, of Greetland, near Halifax, appears to have reattempted spinning it, and again it was condemned. These two attempts failed due to the style of fabric into which the yarn was woven a type of camlet. It was not until the introduction of cotton warps into Bradford trade about 1836 that the true qualities of alpaca could be developed into fabric. It is not known where the cotton warp and mohair or alpaca weft plain-cloth came from, but it was this simple and ingenious structure which enabled Titus Salt, then a young Bradford manufacturer, to use alpaca successfully. Bradford is still the great spinning and manufacturing center for alpaca. Large quantities of yarns and cloths are exported annually to the European continent and the US, although the quantities vary with the fashions in vogue. The typical "alpaca-fabric" is a very characteristic "dress-fabric."
In recent years, interest in alpaca fiber clothing has surged, perhaps partly because alpaca ranching has a reasonably low impact on the environment. Outdoor sports enthusiasts recognize that its lighter weight and better warmth provides them more comfort in colder weather, so outfitters such as R.E.I. and others are beginning to stock more alpaca products. Occasionally, alpaca fiber is woven together with merino wool to attain even more softness and durability.
| The above article is licensed under the GNU Free Documentation License. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/alpaca_fiber). Modified by Apparel Search August 31, 2008 |
Alpacas come in many shades, from a true-blue black through browns and black, fawns, white, silver-greys and rose-greys. White is predominant because of selective breeding: white fiber can be dyed in the largest range of colours. In South America the preference is for white, as white animals generally have better fleece than darker-coloured animals, because the dark colours had been all but bred out. Demand for darker fiber in the United States and elsewhere has pushed breeders to reintroduce the colours, and breeders have been working diligently on breeding dark animals with exceptional fiber. Fiber and conformation are the two most important factors in determining an alpaca's value. In countries such as the USA, Australia and New Zealand, breeders shear their animals annually, weigh the fleeces and test them for fineness, and with that knowledge breed heavier-fleeced animals with finer fiber. Fleece weights vary, with top stud males reaching annual shear weights up to 7 kilograms total fleece and 3 kilograms of good quality fleece; the difference is guard hair, which is often removed before spinning.
Alpacas have been bred in South America for thousands of years; vicunas were first domesticated and bred into alpacas by the ancient Andean tribes of Peru, and alpacas also appeared in Chile and Bolivia. The Amerindians of Peru used the fiber in many styles of fabrics for thousands of years before its introduction into Europe as a commercial product, and the alpaca provided not only warm clothing but also meat. The first European importations of alpaca fiber were into Spain, which transferred the fiber to Germany and France. Alpaca yarn was spun in England for the first time about 1808, but the fiber was condemned as an unworkable material, and an 1830 attempt by Benjamin Outram of Greetland, near Halifax, failed the same way, because of the camlet-type fabric into which the yarn was woven. It was not until the introduction of cotton warps into the Bradford trade about 1836 that the true qualities of alpaca could be developed into fabric, when the cotton warp and mohair or alpaca weft plain cloth enabled Titus Salt, then a young Bradford manufacturer, to use alpaca successfully. Bradford is still the great spinning and manufacturing centre for alpaca. The typical alpaca fabric is a very characteristic dress fabric, and alpaca fleece is made into everything from simple, inexpensive garments made by aboriginal communities to sophisticated, industrially made and expensive products such as suits.
Alpaca fiber has no lanolin, the wool grease found in sheep's wool, and that absence is what makes it hypoallergenic. The same lack of lanolin also means alpaca fiber is not naturally water-repellent, and it has less crimp than wool, making it much less elastic.
Huacaya alpacas produce a dense, soft, crimpy sheep-like fiber. Suri alpacas produce silky pencil-like locks resembling dreadlocks, and are prized for their longer and silkier fibers. Suris are estimated to make up between 19 and 20 percent of the alpaca population.
Good quality alpaca fiber is approximately 18 to 25 microns in diameter and can sell for two to four dollars per ounce. Finer fleeces, with a smaller diameter, are preferred and thus more expensive, and as an alpaca gets older the width of its fibers gets thicker.