Blackwork Embroidery
Embroidery Definitions — definitions of embroidery techniques, stitches and needlework terms from Apparel Search
Blackwork embroidery, usually called simply blackwork, is a simple form of embroidery using black thread on white or off-white fabric. It is usually executed on countable evenweave fabric, in double running stitch — also called Holbein stitch — backstitch and sometimes stem stitch. Firmly twisted threads of any material give a better look than embroidery floss, and metallic or colored threads are sometimes used for accents.
Blackwork Embroidery is normally simply referred to as "Blackwork".
It is a simple form of embroidery, using black thread on white or off-white fabric.
Technique
Blackwork is usually executed on evenweave fabric that is easily countable. Any black thread can be used, but firmly twisted threads of any material give a better look than embroidery floss. Sometimes metallic threads or colored threads are used for accents. The stiches used are double running stich, which is also called holbein stich or backstich and sometimes stem stich.
Historically, there are three known techniques to execute blackwork.
- The stiches are executed following a counting pattern, creating both the bigger shapes and small filling patterns. Most modern blackwork follows this pattern, especially the commercially produced patterns that are marketed for hobby stitchers. The whole embroidery looks somewhat geometric.
- The shapes, which can be curvilinear, are surrounded by outlines made fom stem stich and then filled with geometric patterns
- The entire embroidery is curvilinear, and often uses random stitches, so-called seed stitches, as filling rather than geometric patterns. This style was invented to mimic etchings.
History
Historically, blackwork was used on clothing in the time of Henry VIII. Initially it was known as "Spanish work" since Catherine of Aragon is said to have brought many blackwork dresses with her from Spain. A favourite motif on her clothing was the pomegranate which was used as a heraldic device in Granada, where Catherine lived as a child.
Blackwork continued to thrive under the reign of Elizabeth I, but it lost its popularity during the 17th century.
Modern blackwork
Today, blackwork is more popular than ever. It has a modern feel, due to its austere, formal quality. Much of the success of a blackwork design depends on how tone values are translated into stitches.
Amongst the motifs used, maps are parlicularly popular, also chessboards, in fact anything which could be the subject of a pen and ink drawing.
Blackwork is also an integral part of Assisi Embroidery where it is used to outline the main motif and some of the decoration. Both modern and folk-art cross-stich are sometimes combined with blackwork or similar backstich embroidery.
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| The above article is licensed under the GNU Free Documentation License. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/blackwork_embroidery). 5/1/05 |
Tone Without Color
Blackwork has only one color to work with, so its whole craft is tonal. A filling pattern stitched densely reads dark; the same pattern opened up reads grey; a shape left nearly empty reads almost white. Designers translate the lights and darks of a drawing into pattern density, which is why subjects that suit pen and ink — maps, chessboards, architecture, heraldry — suit blackwork so well, and why its austere, formal quality feels modern even though the technique is Tudor. The counted structure keeps the geometry honest: outlines may curve, but the fillings sit on the counted grid of the evenweave, so a design is planned the way an engraving is planned, in areas of patterned tone.
From Court Dress to Counted Chart
On Tudor clothing blackwork decorated the parts of a garment closest to view — collars, cuffs, chemise necks and coifs — where black silk on white linen read as lace-like richness without lace's cost, and it continued to thrive under Elizabeth I before losing popularity during the 17th century. Its modern revival runs through commercially produced counted patterns for hobby stitchers, which follow the first of the historic techniques: chart, counted stitches, geometric fillings. Blackwork also survives inside another tradition — in Assisi embroidery the Holbein stitch outline that defines the voided motif is blackwork technique put to work as a border, a reminder that these named styles were always a shared toolkit rather than sealed compartments.
Threads and Grounds That Show the Pattern
Blackwork rewards firmly twisted threads, which keep a crisp edge against the white ground, over loosely plied floss, which softens and blurs the counted geometry. The ground must be a true evenweave: if warp and weft counts differ, circles become ovals and the symmetrical fillings drift. Traditional work used black silk on linen; modern stitchers substitute stranded cotton, rayon or metallic accents, and occasionally work in red or another single color — redwork's mirror image — while keeping the defining rule that one thread color and patterned tone do all the work.
Common Questions
Why is the double running stitch called Holbein stitch?
The portrait painter Hans Holbein the Younger became court painter to Henry VIII and painted Henry's queens wearing dresses richly decorated with blackwork. The double-running stitch employed in blackwork took his name from those portraits.
Where did blackwork come from?
Blackwork was used on clothing in the time of Henry VIII and was initially known as Spanish work, since Catherine of Aragon is said to have brought many blackwork dresses with her from Spain. A favourite motif on her clothing was the pomegranate, a heraldic device in Granada, where Catherine lived as a child.
What are the historic techniques of blackwork?
Three are known: counted work following a pattern, with shapes and small filling patterns built from the chart, which most modern blackwork follows; curvilinear shapes outlined in stem stitch and filled with geometric patterns; and an entirely curvilinear style using random seed stitches as filling, invented to mimic etchings.