The purpose of the product development process is to certify that the supplier understands and adheres to the specifications established for a specific product. A retailer's objective is to provide customers the highest level of quality and service at the most competitive price, and that objective is met most successfully when the supplier fully understands the process. Development is critical to customer satisfaction and to minimizing returns, and most retailers run it as a multi-step process that must be completed before finished goods are produced.
Product Development Process by Apparel
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Development Process
The purpose of the product development process is to
certify that the supplier understands and adheres to the
specifications established for a specific product.
Typically, a retailers objective is to provide their
customers with the highest level of quality and service
at the most competitive price. Clothing stores can meet
this objective most successfully when their supplier
fully understands the product development process.
The development process is critical to ensuring
customers satisfaction and minimizing customer returns.
Most
retailers approach to product development
consists of a multi-step process that must be completed
before finished goods are produced. Here are a few
common steps in the product development process.
-
Product Review Meeting
-
Submission of Trimming
& Components
-
Fit Testing
-
Photo Samples
-
Performance Testing
Product Review Meeting: Apparel
buyers, merchandise managers,
quality assurance
personnel, or other members of the retailers staff can
schedule a product review meeting with the supplier.
This meeting should be conducted directly after the
merchandise manager approves the concept for
development. The purpose of the meeting is to review
the preliminary product and package specifications and
to ensure that the supplier is aware of the companies
quality and product development procedures. The meeting
should be of a technical nature. Therefore, the
supplier should bring to the meeting the appropriate
representation from their staff. Expect to discuss the
manufacturing process in detail and address any
potential manufacturing concerns or limitations in
regard to manufacturing the particular item being
discussed. In this meeting, the supplier should be
provided a preliminary
spec file
with details of the garment that is to be
manufactured. The supplier should be
requested within a short period of time to formally
acknowledge their understanding of the requirements. It
is a good idea to obtain this in writing.
Submission of Trimming: before apparel
production begins, it is critical that the buyer
approves all
components
that will comprise the finished product. Some buyers
will require review of all trimming and others will
require the approval of major trim components only. For
example, some buyers will want to see examples of the
actual sewing thread. However, others may not require
to view the thread. It is important to understand what
the buying company wishes to review prior to
production. Experienced fashion merchants will require
that you submit trim submissions on an appropriate
form. This allows both the supplier and the purchaser
to maintain well organized records. Here are a few
examples of items that may need to be submitted for
review.
-
Lab dips, strike offs
(screen printed swatches), reeling of yarn in all
colors.
-
Production fabric, knit
downs, handlooms, etc. Most often required in a large
enough size to to contain full pattern repeat.
-
Care labels & main
labels
-
Clothing Components:
Buttons, lace, zippers, interlinings, shoulder pads,
elastics, hangers, hangtags, price tickets, etc.
-
Packaging: ASN labels,
chip board, jet clips, tissue paper, polybags, etc.
In
addition to trimming, you will most likely be required
to submit Fit Samples, pre-production garment samples,
testing samples, TOP Samples (Top of Production
Samples), etc. You may also be required to submit
documents during this phase such as flammability
documents etc.
Fit Testing: some fashion companies
will require fit testing as part of the product
development process. In order to ensure proper fit,
steps must be taken to evaluate the garments comfort.
This process is to both monitor the manufacturer, but
also to make sure the original
size spec
developed was proper. Even if the manufacturer follows
the spec file perfectly, during the fit process the fit
technician may discover that adjustments may be needed.
Some companies will conduct the fit testing on live fit
models and others will do the testing in fit forms
(mannequins). The merchandisers should advise the
supplier regarding which size garments they wish to
review for fit. Some companies will review only one
size, and others like to review the smallest and largest
size. For example, if production will be ordered in a
scale including small thru double XL, they may require
one sample in size small and one in XXL for the fit
review. Again, the retailer (or company purchasing your
product), should advise you regarding the sizes they
require for review.
Note: There are
many different How to Measure guides in existence.
Make certain to receive a copy of the how to measure
guide that your buyer utilizes. This is the only
way to insure that you provide accurate garments.
After the Fit
testing is complete, the final spec file should be
issued in writing.
Photo
Samples: some retailers will require photo
samples. These samples are utilized for developing
catalogs or advertising. Photo samples typically do
not require all final trimming such as brand labels,
but the outside appearance of the garment must be in
correct silhouette and color. The photos must
represent exactly what the finished product will
look like when shipped (the outside visual
appearance; does not need price tickets, hangers,
etc.). Unfortunately, retailers can not wait for
bulk production samples because catalog photos and
advertising photos are needed far before the
finished garments are ready to ship from the
factory. Again, not all retailers need photography
samples. By the way, some companies use
digital fabric
printing to make samples more quickly if
they have an urgent photo shoot pending.
Performance
Testing: This is a very important aspect of
the product development process. All products developed
must pass
performance testing
requirements. It is the suppliers responsibility to
ensure that all products produced meet or exceed the
buyers
performance standards. Before entering into an
agreement to
manufacturer apparel,
be certain to fully understand the quality standard
requirements requested by your buyers. It is normal
practice to have both fabric and garments tested before
product is delivered. Typically, the testing is done at
a
third party testing
facility such as CTL,
MTL, etc. Often times the buyer is the one to assign
the testing lab. Some times the retailer (buyer) will
submit the garments for testing. However, often the
buyer will require that the supplier submits the fabric
and garments directly to the testing laboratory and then
provide them with copies of the test results. Testing
will be done prior to production and after final
production is complete. Many retailers will also do
surprise testing on garments after they arrive into the
stores. This technique is used to discourage suppliers
from submitting garments for testing that are not
actually the same quality as final production.
Some articles of clothing will require more testing then
other items. For example, items that claim to flame
retardant, water resistant, anti-bacterial, etc., may
require additional testing. Also, some children's
apparel may require additional safety evaluation.
Above are "some" of the common issues involved in the
product development process. This article
unfortunately, can not contain every aspect. The
overall suggestion from Apparel Search is to make sure
that both the buyer and supplier fully understand the
programs requirements. Ask each other questions and
communicate openly. It is in everyone's best interest
if the process runs smoothly and results in top quality
garments.
Fashion Product Development
Items relevant
to the clothing product development process:
Pre-production Submits
Bulk Production
Main Labels /
Labels
Care Labels
Buttons
Lace
Zippers
Interlining
Shoulder Pads
Elastics
Hangers
Hangtags
Price Tickets
Fabric
Trims & Notions
Jet Clips
Polybags
Buyer guides
Have you seen the new
Home Sewing Patterns
website.
Photo Samples and Performance Testing
Some retailers also require photo samples for catalogs and advertising. The outside appearance must be exactly what the finished product will look like when shipped — correct silhouette and color — though final trimming such as brand labels, price tickets and hangers is not required, because advertising photography cannot wait for bulk production. Performance testing closes the process: a very important check that the product performs as specified before finished goods are made, supported where needed by testing labs and inspections.
Why the Steps Are Written Down
Almost every stage ends in a document — the acknowledged spec file, the organized trim submission forms, the final spec issued after fitting. The paperwork is the process: it proves the supplier understood the requirements, gives both sides organized records of what was approved, and makes any later disagreement about a production garment answerable from the file rather than from memory.
Common Questions
What happens at a product review meeting?
Buyers, merchandise managers, quality assurance personnel or other retail staff meet the supplier directly after the merchandise manager approves the concept. The technical meeting reviews the preliminary product and package specifications and the company's quality and development procedures, discusses the manufacturing process and any concerns or limitations, provides the supplier a preliminary spec file, and asks the supplier to formally acknowledge the requirements in writing within a short period.
What trimming and components are submitted for approval?
Depending on the buyer: lab dips and strike-offs, reeling of yarn in all colors, production fabric, knit downs and handlooms large enough to contain a full pattern repeat, care and main labels, components such as buttons, lace, zippers, interlinings, shoulder pads, elastics, hangers, hangtags and price tickets, and packaging items such as ASN labels, chip board, jet clips, tissue paper and polybags. Fit samples, pre-production samples, testing samples and TOP samples may also be required, plus documents such as flammability records.
How is fit testing conducted?
Fit is evaluated for comfort and against the size spec on live fit models or on fit forms (mannequins), in the sizes the merchandiser advises — some companies review one size, others the smallest and largest in the scale. Even a garment made perfectly to spec may need adjustment if the original spec proves wrong, and after fit testing the final spec file is issued in writing, using the buyer's own how-to-measure guide.