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Sewing / Stitch & Seams Guide

Stitch and Seams Guide for the Apparel Industry

A guide to the ASTM D-6193 stitch and seam standard — stitch classes 100 through 600 and seam classes SS, LS, BS, FS, EF and OS — developed by Professor Bernard Kahn of Parsons and the Fashion Institute of Technology, so you can find the correct stitch and seam for your product specifications, communications and development.

Fabric samples showing plain, French and flat-felled seams sewn in contrasting thread
Seam samples: plain, French and flat-felled seams.

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Sewing Resources

The following fabulous stitch & seam guides have been developed by Professor Bernard Kahn. Professor Kahn has been a professor at both Parsons and the Fashion Institute of Technology. Apparel Search greatly appreciates Professor Kahn's efforts in creating this tremendously helpful guide.

Stitch Guide

Browse the Stitch Guide

Select a stitch class for individual stitch type diagrams, descriptions and selected machine images. The stitches in this guide are the most commonly used stitches. See the listing of ASTM D-6193 stitches not illustrated.

Seam Guide

Browse the Seam Guide

Select a seam class for individual seam diagrams:

Reading the Codes

How Seams Are Identified

Seams are identified by symbols as follows: the class of seam is two or more upper case letters; the type of the class is one or more lower case letters; and the number of rows of stitches designates the number of needle rows in the stitch. This Stitch & Seam Guide is designed to enable you to easily find and utilize the correct ASTM D-6193 stitch and seam standard for your product specifications, communications and development — the Stitch and Seam Guide to the ASTM Standard D-6193 (formerly Federal Standard 751a), powered by www.Garmenco.org.

About the Guide

About Professor Kahn's Guide

This stitch guide and seams guide was created by Bernard Kahn, Adj. Professor of Production Management at Fashion Institute of Technology and Parsons The New School for Design. If you have questions about the seams guide, contact Professor Bernard Kahn at bkahn@hvc.rr.com or kahnb@newschool.edu, or from his web site at Garmenco.org.

The combined Stitch Guide and Seams Guide page presents both guides together.

To see how these stitches and seams are used to finish and fit a garment, visit the Apparel Search Pattern Making, Draping & Fitting guide, including its chapter on seam finishes and pressing: Hong Kong and bound finishes, French and flat-felled seams, and the tailor's pressing tools.

Thank you for taking the time to explore the Stitch & Seams Guide to learn more about sewing.

Photos

Photos

Sewing stitches and seams
Sewing stitches and seams.

Common Questions

Common Questions

What standard does this stitch and seam guide follow?

The guide follows ASTM Standard D-6193 (formerly Federal Standard 751a), the standard for stitches and seams used in product specifications, communications and development.

How are seams identified in the guide?

By symbols: the class of seam is two or more upper case letters, the type of the class is one or more lower case letters, and the number of rows of stitches designates the number of needle rows in the stitch.

Who developed the stitch and seam guides?

Professor Bernard Kahn, Adj. Professor of Production Management at Fashion Institute of Technology and Parsons The New School for Design.

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