Twill Fabric Factories

The Diagonal Weave

A twill weave passes each weft yarn over and under warp yarns in a staggered progression - two over, two under is the workhorse - so the interlacing points step sideways row by row and draw visible diagonal lines, called wales or twill lines, across the cloth. That geometry is why twill behaves as it does: fewer interlacings than plain weave let the yarns pack closer and move a little against each other, so twill fabrics are stronger for their weight, drape better, wrinkle less visibly and hide soil in the diagonal texture. Denim is a warp-faced twill, gabardine a steep fine twill, chino a midweight cotton twill, drill and serge its workwear and uniform cousins - an entire wardrobe hangs on this one weave family.

With twenty-one factories across Pakistan, Bangladesh, China, India, Indonesia and Honduras, this is one of the directory's largest fabric listings. Each factory's profile is below, and the Twill Fabric Search pages are linked on this page.

Reading a Twill

Twills are described by their repeat and direction: a 2/2 twill balances warp and weft on both faces; a 3/1 twill shows mostly warp, which is how indigo warp and white weft make denim blue outside and pale inside. The diagonal can run right-handed (rising to the right, the standard) or left-handed, and steep twills pack the rows tighter for gabardine's fine rib while reclined twills flatten for softer cloth. Herringbone reverses the diagonal at intervals, houndstooth builds its check from twill groupings, and cavalry twill doubles the line for whipcord - variations buyers meet constantly in suiting and uniform specifications.

Fiber follows function: cotton twills for chinos, workwear and denim; wool twills for suiting, serge and gabardine coats; polyester and blend twills for uniforms and industrial clothing where laundering is harsh; and filament twills for linings that need to slide. In every fiber, the specification language is the same - weave repeat, twill direction, yarn count, finished weight and width.

Where Twill Is Used and How It Wears

Jeans, chinos and work trousers; jackets and trenches in gabardine; uniforms in serge and poly-cotton twill; shirts in fine cotton twill and herringbone; suitings and skirts in wool twill; upholstery and bags in heavy drill and canvas-like twills. The weave's durability is real but not magic: twill's floats abrade at fold lines and edges first, which is why workwear fails at cuffs and knees, and dark twills show abrasion shine - ironing marks - if pressed hot and flat; a press cloth and steam are the tailor's answer.

Cutting and sewing notes follow from the diagonal: twill can skew after finishing if the weave's natural torque is not corrected, and good mills guarantee residual skew within a stated percent, because a skewed twill wraps a trouser leg around the wearer's calf. Pattern pieces for prominent twills are cut with the diagonal's direction considered on paired parts, and checks built on twill grounds need the same repeat matching as any check.

The Factories on This Page

The twenty-one listings below span the world's twill-exporting regions: Ahmed Fine, Gulshan Weaving, Multan Industries, Usman Enterprises and Wazir Group from Pakistan; Beximco Group from Bangladesh; Flytex, Shanghai Best Linen Cotton, Shenghong Group, Wujiang Hengyu and Xiamen C and D and Zibo Ermao from China; G R Garments, Glacial Exports, Lotus Mills, Shamala Textiles and Vrijesh Corporation from India; PT. Frans Putratex from Indonesia; Textiles Rio Lindo from Honduras; and Supreme Textile Industries and The West Coast Weaving Establishment. Each name opens its Fabric Mills by Name profile, which is where the company-level detail lives.

Fabric Mills and Factories in This Directory

The mills below are listed in this directory. Each name opens the company's profile in the Fabric Mills by Name directory.